Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 25

Thread: Changing tyres while in the bush

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    The Hills.
    Posts
    19,182
    Total Downloaded
    152.79 MB
    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    tyre pliers
    R&R bead breaker
    slide hammer
    gympie and a brass drift
    high lift jack as a compresion tool
    high lift jack under a truck
    walking around the sidewall with boots on stepping near the rim as a puddle of liquid hand soap and water works its way past the bead.

    that gets the bead broken

    2 (3 is easier) gets the tyre off sometimes with a little help from a rubber mallet..

    seatings easy. shooter tank, or areostart and a match.

    sometimes tyre soap, hand cleaner, conditioner and a normal compressor is just enough.
    The aerostart trick is easy, but you need to be judicious with just how much aerostart! A little bit goes a loooong way.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Sunshine Coast
    Posts
    65
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Reseating a tyre

    Land Rover rims are very hard to reseat the flip side of this is that it is also hard to 'debead' a tyre even with very low pressure when driving over soft ground.

    I would not use any form of aerosol and a match to reseat a bead as I have seen what happens when a tyre catches fire. Very very difficult to put out the fire and if you have left the rime on the vehicle i can only imagine the result

    Regards

    XDrive

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    The Hills.
    Posts
    19,182
    Total Downloaded
    152.79 MB
    Quote Originally Posted by XDrive View Post
    Land Rover rims are very hard to reseat the flip side of this is that it is also hard to 'debead' a tyre even with very low pressure when driving over soft ground.

    I would not use any form of aerosol and a match to reseat a bead as I have seen what happens when a tyre catches fire. Very very difficult to put out the fire and if you have left the rime on the vehicle i can only imagine the result

    Regards

    XDrive
    While I agree that tyre fires are almost impossible to extinguish ( over the years I have seen two semi trailers burned to the ground ), they also extremely difficult to ignite, and a two second burst of an aerosol ain't going to do it.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Pilbara
    Posts
    344
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by 86mud View Post
    Anyone used one of these? looks like a simple design to make yourself

    TC110

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sn2KQgQvyH4


    Makes it look easy. I've attempted to change a 235/75/16 tyre once and it was a struggle - three blokes just using tyre levers.
    I've had one for a couple of years. Made a mount on the bull bar. Used it a dozen or so times, bit of lube and never had trouble with any brand/type of tyre so far. Also use tyre pliers bead breakers and never had a problem, bit of lube as the tyre comes off and take small bites.

    Rick

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Torres Straits
    Posts
    3,503
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I also have one
    Thought about making one but got lazy
    Works awesome in workshop have the stem mounted inn bigbaddaboom hydraulic press
    Made a tyre pressing die to pop beads
    Works a treat

    Have thought about making a bull bar mount but yet to make that happen!


    Oh yeah the thing is boss for me where local tyre shop charges $35 to flip a tyre

    Yup 35 ... Don not matter if you buy new donuts from them or not


    S
    '95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
    '10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Geelong, VIC
    Posts
    4,442
    Total Downloaded
    0
    For those of you who have the mount setup, what are you using to get the bead off the rim? Just normal tyre levers or do you have a longer bar like the one in the original post,

    Steve
    1985 County - Isuzu 4bd1 with HX30W turbo, LT95, 255/85-16 KM2's
    1988 120 with rust and potential
    1999 300tdi 130 single cab - "stock as bro"
    2003 D2a Td5 - the boss's daily drive

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Toowoomba QLD
    Posts
    1,132
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by johntins View Post
    The aerostart trick is easy, but you need to be judicious with just how much aerostart! A little bit goes a loooong way.


    Works well and I agree that setting a tyre on fire is very unlikely.
    WD40, hairspray etc all work. The ratchet strap method I have less success with.
    However I once had an issue where a valve stem let go about 10 minutes after seating the bead with WD40 and a match; the inner stem core appeared to be glued into the outer stem. The glue didn't like the heat, resulting in the valve and insert flying out under pressure. Fortunately I was only going slowly. Managed to find it and a small hose clamp around the valve stem kept it all together.
    Something to be aware of anyway. Carrying spare valve stems and changing after the bead seats is probably the safest option. Tubeless stems are only $1.50 each on ebay in a bag of 10 and spares are good to carry. Also for those still running tubes, extra tubeless stems can be very handy.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    S.E.Qld
    Posts
    1,401
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Carrying spare valve stems and changing after the bead seats is probably the safest option.

    I'm still using rag tyres with tubes on standard rims, but always carry some tubeless valves for just in case. I've never had to use one. I was always under the impression that I had to insert them from the inside.(Pull them through from inside to outside)
    .W.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Toowoomba QLD
    Posts
    1,132
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by B.S.F. View Post
    Carrying spare valve stems and changing after the bead seats is probably the safest option.

    I'm still using rag tyres with tubes on standard rims, but always carry some tubeless valves for just in case. I've never had to use one. I was always under the impression that I had to insert them from the inside.(Pull them through from inside to outside)
    .W.

    Yes, my bad. They have to be pulled through from the inside which means my suggested precaution doesn't make sense. I have heard of a tool which can insert them from the outside but never seen one.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    The Hills.
    Posts
    19,182
    Total Downloaded
    152.79 MB
    Quote Originally Posted by johntins View Post
    Wow. That thing is the duck's guts. Pity Disco's don't have tailgates.
    Went and looked at one in Bayswater, Vic. $488 seems a bit steep to me.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!