D1 Diff rebuild

**Tins** · 26th September 2016, 12:17 PM

I was trying to track down a recently developing noise/grumble. I found that the rear tailshaft bolts were loose. Decided new ones would be the go, and do the unis and the rear seal in the T/C while I was at it. taking it apart, I noticed there is quite a lot of backlash at the pinion flange of the diff, and am unpleasant 'feeling' when turning it back and forth. Seems likely it's time for a set of bearings, at least.
Is it as complicated as RAVE makes it look? I have none of the special tools, but I'm prepared to buy a dial gauge. It would be 35 years since I last did a diff. Would I just be better off taking it somewhere?
Oh, it has a MaxiDrive locker as well.

**Tins** · 26th September 2016, 03:30 PM

Might have got ahead of myself here. After much swearing ( the thing was glued in with so much blue Permatex I'm surprised they bothered to put the nuts back ), I've got it out. While there is still some lash there, I reckon most of it was through the whole setup, and not the C&P. Will get some blue and check where the contact points are.
How much lash is excessive?

**jboot51** · 26th September 2016, 04:52 PM

I think the lash is 8 thou measured at the outermost edge of a crownwheel tooth with a dial indicator.
When I did one a few months ago it was a struggle to find any info.

**Tins** · 26th September 2016, 05:52 PM

Originally Posted by jboot51

I think the lash is 8 thou measured at the outermost edge of a crownwheel tooth with a dial indicator.
When I did one a few months ago it was a struggle to find any info.

Thanks for that. Yeah, even RAVE doesn't help, that i can find.

Reckon mine is more than .008" It's audible. With my ears, that's probably not good.

**Tins** · 26th September 2016, 06:03 PM

Actually, I mis-read RAVE. .10 to .17 mm. , which is what? 3 to 7 thou? Anyway, quite a bit less than I have, I suspect.

**Tins** · 26th September 2016, 06:50 PM

Originally Posted by johntins

Actually, I mis-read RAVE. .10 to .17 mm. , which is what? 3 to 7 thou? Anyway, quite a bit less than I have, I suspect.

Just watched a vid. Ashcrofts make it look so easy..

**PhilipA** · 26th September 2016, 07:59 PM

IMHO after doing 2 RRC diffs, the main issue for the amateur is the pinion height , if you replace the pinion bearings.
Doing the backlash is pretty easy.
However I remember doing the pinion height involved sitting the dial indicator on the end of the pinion,as this is where the special tool "bridge " is used.
Regards Philip A

**Tins** · 27th September 2016, 09:39 AM

Originally Posted by PhilipA

IMHO after doing 2 RRC diffs, the main issue for the amateur is the pinion height , if you replace the pinion bearings.
Doing the backlash is pretty easy.
However I remember doing the pinion height involved sitting the dial indicator on the end of the pinion,as this is where the special tool "bridge " is used.
Regards Philip A

Thanks. I think that pinion height may be beyond me ATM, as I don't have the measuring equipment, a press, a proper bench and vice, or a shim kit.

Off to the pros.

**steveG** · 30th September 2016, 08:34 PM

Drop the carrier and pinion out for a look first. No point getting it rebuilt if the bearings are ok.

Steve

**Tins** · 11th October 2016, 02:04 PM

Side carrier bearings were stuffed, allowing the crownwheel to walk. Caused bad wear, so that when the diff was put back to specs it was very noisy. So, new C&P. Ouch.

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