Thread: Drum brake adjustment question.

Hmmm, good thought there mate... The old shoes showed more contact on one side. I'll whip the drums off now I've been out a few times in it and check. Maybe I do need to have the drums skimmed.

Not always the drums - are the shoes sitting straight? Late backing plates have pressed protrusions that hold the shoes straight, but early ones have adjustable pins to hold them straight.

John

They seemed straight yes, certainly no visible signs, but I might run a square over them as well.

I remember you saying JD that some of the later Series with drums stopped quite well,,
Just wondering if the 101's (by design) would be in that group?
and Gav? a pic of the new shoes installed?

Chucky stopped very well when I got him, but I've done 20,000KM since then and certainly in the last year they've been horrid.

I'm more than 50% of the way there, just need some fine tuning.

Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift

I remember you saying JD that some of the later Series with drums stopped quite well,,
Just wondering if the 101's (by design) would be in that group?
and Gav? a pic of the new shoes installed?

I have no experience of the 101, so I can't comment on it, although being a 1970s design, I doubt that the MOD would have accepted it with poor brakes.

Note that all unboosted drum brakes will suffer fade far more easily than discs, as the self servo action decreases, giving a multiplier effect, and pedal movement will increase as drums expand. Also, all drum brakes will lose effectiveness with water.

Despite this, drum brakes can be quite effective, and Series 2a onward lwb ones are if in good condition, and swb ones aren't too bad either. But effectiveness is not the same as low pedal pressure!

John

This gives an indication how good the brakes are