Page 1 of 4 123 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 36

Thread: TD5 sticking at 3,000 rpm

  1. 23rd January 2017, 12:38 PM #1
    surfingooner's Avatar
    surfingooner
    surfingooner is offline Master
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    North Warrandyte, VIC
    Posts
    350
    Total Downloaded
    0

    TD5 sticking at 3,000 rpm

    HELP !!! - I have been endlessly researching this forum and other forums as to how to solve my TD5 never revving past 3,000 rpm. Does anyone know of a fix that solved it, I have read lot's of potential culprits it could be, and have been trying to work out what my problem is on another thread, but I can never see where someone cured it ?


    There are a number of people who have experienced the same problem, so there must be (I am hoping) a common issue that was eventually found ?


    I have changed the MAF, boost modulator, fuel filter, air filter, newish fuel pump, cleaned the ECU, checked fuse F2, cleaned the MAP, replaced hoses to the modulator to the wastegate.


    I am sure it is ECU related and not a fuel blockage, something somewhere is giving bad feedback


    I drove a D2 same year over the weekend, his had been chipped with 370k, mine re-mapped with 270k, performance very similar for both, but his would rev freely past 3,000 up to 3,750, mine basically stops at 2,750 and you have to try very hard to get just past 3,000.


    And when it does change up it shoots off. It is making such a difference to driving as the engine needs to get past 3,000 to get the momentum to change gear.


    Only thing I haven't done to date is change the gauze in the fuel regulator (mainly because it looks pretty tricky) but before I do it, I thought someone out there must have done something when they had the same problem that solved it.


    3 years I have had this problem, and am determined to solve it, if I give the car to a specialist it might cost a great deal to find it, if there is a saviour out there..........Any help would be great.
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  2. 23rd January 2017, 03:38 PM #2
    sierrafery's Avatar
    sierrafery
    sierrafery is offline YarnMaster Silver Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    west of Transylvania
    Posts
    3,782
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Hi, better find somebody with nanocom, record a live "inputs fuelling" log from a longer drive and post it here... otherwise it can be a guessing game cos only cleaning the MAP doesnt fix it if it reads low due to wear and the AAP reading is important too... aren't the turbo hoses delaminated?, is it 15P engine?
    Discovery Td5 (2000), manual, tuned
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  3. 23rd January 2017, 04:26 PM #3
    Tank's Avatar
    Tank
    Tank is offline AT REST
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Moruya Heads/Sth. Coast, NSW
    Posts
    6,532
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Does your TD5 have a "fly by wire" throttle or a cable, should check to see if you are getting full throttle when pedal flat to the floor, good luck, Regards Frank.
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  4. 24th January 2017, 08:33 AM #4
    Pierre
    Pierre is offline Wizard Silver Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Blairgowrie, Vic
    Posts
    1,106
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Smile fyi

    TD5 engines are fly by wire, with throttle pot on the pedal assembly.

    Pete
    Dizzie, 08 D3 TDV6 SE
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  5. 24th January 2017, 05:16 PM #5
    Tank's Avatar
    Tank
    Tank is offline AT REST
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Moruya Heads/Sth. Coast, NSW
    Posts
    6,532
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Pierre View Post
    TD5 engines are fly by wire, with throttle pot on the pedal assembly.

    Pete
    Would start there then, Regards Frank.
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  6. 24th January 2017, 10:31 PM #6
    surfingooner's Avatar
    surfingooner
    surfingooner is offline Master
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    North Warrandyte, VIC
    Posts
    350
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by sierrafery View Post
    Hi, better find somebody with nanocom, record a live "inputs fuelling" log from a longer drive and post it here... otherwise it can be a guessing game cos only cleaning the MAP doesnt fix it if it reads low due to wear and the AAP reading is important too... aren't the turbo hoses delaminated?, is it 15P engine?
    Think you are right and will search out a friendly nanocom owner in North Melbourne area. Sure it is not a throttle issue, but still have no idea why she won't rev properly.
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  7. 13th February 2017, 12:12 PM #7
    surfingooner's Avatar
    surfingooner
    surfingooner is offline Master
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    North Warrandyte, VIC
    Posts
    350
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Nanocom

    Accessed nanocom at weekend (thank you Railey), whilst we were not able to live-test, I can report as follows:


    Car initially logged a driver demand fault 1.5, not sure what that is, no other faults.


    Revved to 4,000 rpm no problem, at idle MAF was circa 45, when revving circa 380 - low


    Swapped cars over and Railey was 50 - 60 at idle, hit 600 when revving.


    So went back to mine, gave it more welly and hit 500, so nearly there. Went for a drive and no difference, struggled at 2,750 up a hill and just did not want to go past 3,100 rpm.


    On return it showed overboost fault, I have only 3 turns showing on boost screw, so now backed off to 8 and yes the car is happier at higher revs, but problem still there.


    Did digging last night a two points I want to raise reading older posts.


    1) Is there the possibility it could be a clutch issue, the previous owner bought the Disco to pull a boat, a very big boat, and was going to by a 4.2 Cruiser after as needed more grunt. The clutch could be slipping ? (Auto)


    2) There is a lead that goes behind the rear heat cover, over the gearbox which got pretty fried (lead is black) from old days when the manifold leaked, could I have some kind of electrical shorting problem. I will take a photo this evening, some posts suggest this can create a problem in the ECU.


    Any thoughts are very welcome, I am determined to beat this problem !!!


    Thanks,


    Matt.
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  8. 13th February 2017, 01:07 PM #8
    Pierre
    Pierre is offline Wizard Silver Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Blairgowrie, Vic
    Posts
    1,106
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Fried lead

    Probably the lead for the oil pressure switch. Does the oil pressure light come on before you start the engine?

    If the dash lamp does not light, then repair the lead so that low oil pressure is sensed. I doubt that it affects the max engine speed, though.

    Pete
    Last edited by Pierre; 13th February 2017 at 01:07 PM. Reason: ./s
    Dizzie, 08 D3 TDV6 SE
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  9. 13th February 2017, 05:48 PM #9
    surfingooner's Avatar
    surfingooner
    surfingooner is offline Master
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    North Warrandyte, VIC
    Posts
    350
    Total Downloaded
    0
    IMG_2062.jpg
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  10. 13th February 2017, 05:49 PM #10
    surfingooner's Avatar
    surfingooner
    surfingooner is offline Master
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    North Warrandyte, VIC
    Posts
    350
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Yes the light works, there goes that theory then !
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
Page 1 of 4 123 ... LastLast
« Bleeding Brakes with vacuum bleeder. | Rear Wheel bearing failure »

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Forum Rules

Search AULRO.com ONLY!
 Search All the Web!