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22nd December 2005, 04:34 PM
#1
Rear Pinion Seal
Anybody have any dos and dont's for replacing the rear pinion seal. I have read the manual and it talks about using a spring scale to measure the amount of effort to turn the diff before the seal is removed. The last time I replaced the pinion seal (it was done by local mechanic, not a L/rover fan ) and it lasted about 100klms before it rustproofed the underside of the County. I'll probably replace the front bearing while I am there, but the trick is to have the correct tension on the crushable spacer. Any info will be greatly appreciated.
Maggsie
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22nd December 2005, 07:22 PM
#2
Pinion seal
Did a rear one on my Rangie about 2 years ago. Just undid the pinion nut, replaced the seal and did the nut back up to the recommended torque.
I have done it like this on a number of vehicles with no problems.
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22nd December 2005, 08:16 PM
#3
G'Day,
The diff in your county would be a salisbury ie the crushable spacer, differant to rangie diffs there shimed to set the pre-load the crushable spacer sets the pre-load in your diff if you dont change the bearing just re-toque the pinnion nut and should be ok if you change the bearing nd cup you will need to reset the pre load..........
hope this helps
Tony
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22nd December 2005, 10:11 PM
#4
<span style="color:blue">check also the surface on the pinion where the seal runs......
if this is grooved....you will need to repair it or replace it....
to repair it a sleeve is available from bearing places which slips
(with the aid of a press) over the pinion....
giving a nice new surface for the seal to run on.....
other wise straight forward....
drop the prop shaft....
undo the big nut and remove the pinion....
remove and replace the seal...
refit the pinion and re tighten the big nut.....
refit the prop shaft....
check diff oil level.....</span>
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22nd December 2005, 11:13 PM
#5
SPEEDI SLEEVE.......there cheaper than a new flange and very effective. You only need a soft face hammer to install it to, just fill in any large pits and grooves with some devcon metal, sand smooth and tap the sleeve on(it comes with a cup to tap it on with) and peel of the lip. Easy as that.
I always put a speedi sleeve on if the diff is onto it's second seal within 5000k's.
Cheers Larns
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23rd December 2005, 07:38 AM
#6
On a salisbury diff there is no quoted torque figure for doing the pinion nut back up, because of the crushable spacer arrangement. The easiest way around this is to mark the position of the nut with a couple of small centre punch dimples, and then count the number of turns as you undo it. That way you can do it back up the same numeber of turns till the marks re-align.
Paul
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23rd December 2005, 08:45 AM
#7
Thanks to all for the info.
Maggsie
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23rd December 2005, 08:49 AM
#8
There is a rolling resistance measured with a torque meatier for doing up the pinion nut, you can use this meserment with a normal torque wrench to re-set the nut as long as you haven’t changed the bearings or cone
Tony
PS I haven’t got access to the EMI’s anymore so I don’t know what the setting is but any RAME guys out there should be able to look it up
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23rd December 2005, 01:01 PM
#9
Originally posted by tony
There is a rolling resistance measured with a torque meatier for doing up the pinion nut, you can use this meserment with a normal torque wrench to re-set the nut as long as you haven’t changed the bearings or cone
Tony
PS I haven’t got access to the EMI’s anymore so I don’t know what the setting is but any RAME guys out there should be able to look it up
The torque is 17.3 - 34.5 kgf/cm for reused bearings and 34.5 - 46.0 kgf/cm for new bearings. But those figures are only meant to be used before the crownwheel and the rest of the diff assembly is engaged with the pinion.
Paul
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