Thread: A/C comp question.

always a shim or 2 on the drive plate..denso compressor they are almost allways inside the clutch. other compressors like sanden the shim is most likely to be on the shaft and look like a dust slinger. As it wear out the gap gets larger so the shims are removed.

a possibility is when changing the bearing the pulley center was forced toward the compressor[direction] when you pressed it out. Common mistake place on a flat surface or sockets and not use press tools.

unlikely to be other problems as you wont get the circlip on if the coil or nose is holding the pulley out.

some times there are different bearings if you purchased from a bearing service but it should be obvious..

Originally Posted by Davehoos

always a shim or 2 on the drive plate..denso compressor they are almost allways inside the clutch. other compressors like sanden the shim is most likely to be on the shaft and look like a dust slinger. As it wear out the gap gets larger so the shims are removed.

a possibility is when changing the bearing the pulley center was forced toward the compressor[direction] when you pressed it out. Common mistake place on a flat surface or sockets and not use press tools.

unlikely to be other problems as you wont get the circlip on if the coil or nose is holding the pulley out.

some times there are different bearings if you purchased from a bearing service but it should be obvious..

OK. There were definitely no shims ( Denso ). The bearings are identical. There is a sort of slinger that the bearing buts up to when pushed in. I wonder if this has been done before, and botched then. The car has never had air since I got it, as it has always shredded belts.

Where on the drive plate should they be? There is no sign of there having been any.

Originally Posted by Davehoos

always a shim or 2 on the drive plate..denso compressor they are almost allways inside the clutch.

Do yo mean at the bottom of the spline?

The LR compressor I repaired once had a small flat washer between the end of the splined shaft and the clutch plate. Nothing more than a simple washer with the ID of the retaining bolt.

6mm thread.

few different types clutch. most common is rubber coupling for noise. this will melt when normally like a shear pin.
denso make many types of compressors and they make them so each brand of user is different in a small way.

loads of heavy duty and different dia plates.

the dust slinger often come in different sizes so you check for clearance.

the a/c company I worked for had a shed full of old stock and a lathe.

Originally Posted by Davehoos

6mm thread.

few different types clutch. most common is rubber coupling for noise. this will melt when normally like a shear pin.
denso make many types of compressors and they make them so each brand of user is different in a small way.

loads of heavy duty and different dia plates.

the dust slinger often come in different sizes so you check for clearance.

the a/c company I worked for had a shed full of old stock and a lathe.

Do you maybe know what the clearance should be? I figure I could make some washers up out of shim brass.

online spec shows .020-.035 [imperial].

if its a second hand clutch it may have to be less or touchy feely. often they are out of round.The wear will not be flat. the faces have vent holes and the contacts surface cuts into the softer area. if you fit a newer plate it often wont grab as it will have less surface to contact.

the coil gets weaker as it fails or with landrovers the voltage drops.
then the rubber in the clutch deforms. oil soaked or gone hard with heat.

I push the clutch till it contacts then add shims. dens normally is a loose fit unlike other brands.