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Thread: Maxi Drive Flange Nut - Need a 52mm Socket

  1. #11
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    Does the nut have to come off...undo the drive flange and the axle pulls out with the drive Lange doesn't it??

    I happen to have 2 x 52mm 1/2" impact socket that ranga hasn't pick up yet.

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by weeds View Post
    Does the nut have to come off...undo the drive flange and the axle pulls out with the drive Lange doesn't it??

    I happen to have 2 x 52mm 1/2" impact socket that ranga hasn't pick up yet.
    Hi Weeds - the nut has to come off. My garage is so narrow I can't pull the axle out while it's in there.

    I'll PM you about the socket. Hopefully Ranga won't mind if I borrow it

    Cheers, Dave.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave_S View Post
    Hi Weeds - the nut has to come off. My garage is so narrow I can't pull the axle out while it's in there.

    I'll PM you about the socket. Hopefully Ranga won't mind if I borrow it

    Cheers, Dave.
    I see

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by weeds View Post
    I see
    I don't suppose there's any chance you'll be around this morning?

  5. #15
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    Be home around 2pm

  6. #16
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    52mm nut?

    Measure it across the flats, Regards Frank.

    Quote Originally Posted by Dave_S View Post
    Thanks mate. I really appreciate the offer, but it's an hour drive each way, so 4 hours to collect and return it. I might just order a socket. Can you confirm that it's a 52mm socket?

  7. #17
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    If its like the shafts I put in the back of my 130, its not a nut. Its a machined cap, which is machined out of Hex Bar. By nature of their design they're like the oil level plugs in hub reduction axles... they get tight! Back the Land Rover out of the shed, and give the head of the cap a swift belt with a sledge hammer. If you're worried about retaining the cad plating finish, use a piece of hardwood to soften the blow, but give it 2 hits! This squashes any seal, cracks any Locktite, and more often than not loosens it. Don't be shy with the hammer. Under it you'll find the shaft held in place with a circlip. The oil will be tracking up the splines (check your diff breather is clear and working). On refitting, see if you can't find a large copper washer or a fine O ring. Tighten the cap onto the copper washer and it will seal it for you. A very fine O ring is needed if you want it to seal.

    Whilst the Land Rover is out, chock the wheels and pull the shafts, because if you can't get them out in the shed with the cap still on, you won't gain much by taking it and the flange off! Pop the diff lock in and drive it back in on the front axle.
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  8. #18
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    tight maxidrive machined caps

    as mentioned give them a good walloping, i don't recall them being LHT.

    I used thread tape on them, it provides a seal and stops them binding.

    thanks for the reminder I must take them off, they haven't been removed for a while

    cheers
    simmo

    simmo
    95 300Tdi Defender wagon

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by simmo View Post
    as mentioned give them a good walloping, i don't recall them being LHT.

    I used thread tape on them, it provides a seal and stops them binding.

    thanks for the reminder I must take them off, they haven't been removed for a while

    cheers
    simmo
    They're not LHT. I used a 3/4 drive cordless rattle gun on mine. My vernier puts it as 52mm. I used Permatex to seal mine. Working so far.

    Likewise, thanks for the reminder. I also need to change the diff oil, as it's a bit more than 1000ks since I had the diff rebuilt.
    ​JayTee

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