If its like the shafts I put in the back of my 130, its not a nut. Its a machined cap, which is machined out of Hex Bar. By nature of their design they're like the oil level plugs in hub reduction axles... they get tight! Back the Land Rover out of the shed, and give the head of the cap a swift belt with a sledge hammer. If you're worried about retaining the cad plating finish, use a piece of hardwood to soften the blow, but give it 2 hits! This squashes any seal, cracks any Locktite, and more often than not loosens it. Don't be shy with the hammer. Under it you'll find the shaft held in place with a circlip. The oil will be tracking up the splines (check your diff breather is clear and working). On refitting, see if you can't find a large copper washer or a fine O ring. Tighten the cap onto the copper washer and it will seal it for you. A very fine O ring is needed if you want it to seal.
Whilst the Land Rover is out, chock the wheels and pull the shafts, because if you can't get them out in the shed with the cap still on, you won't gain much by taking it and the flange off! Pop the diff lock in and drive it back in on the front axle.
1995 Mercedes 1222A 4x4
1969 (Now know! Thanks Diana!!) Ser 2 Tdi SWB
1991 VW Citi Golf Cti (soon to be Tdi)
'When there's smoke, there's plenty of poke!!'
'The more the smoke, the more the poke!!'
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