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Thread: Another D1 window thread...

  1. #1
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    Another D1 window thread...

    I've searched for this, but I haven't found anything that matches my problem. I put down the LHF window on Dave the Disco, and when I put it back up it stops half way. It will go down again, but stops halfway up each time. I can't see anything wrong with it, the rollers appear to be fine. I put it back in with the window fully up. It went down fully, but still stops half way.

    Has anyone run into this? Can I fix it, or do I need to get another regulator? It seems to be a mechanical issue, not an electrical one, but it's a LR, so what would I know?
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  2. #2
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    Check that the roller channels have not been pinched somewhere along their length. Same with the rubber trim in the window frame. A pinch may not be sufficient to hinder downward progress, given the weight, but coming back up might just be enough. Are the wheels really in good condition, no flat spots because they're dragging rather that rolling? Do you actually have all wheels present and accounted for .

    Remote chance the door is bend out of shape slightly or the slim top frame is not quite in alignment with the bottom?

    As an experiment, you can get into the switch control in the centre consol and swap right window button to left window - if LHF goes fully up then maybe a problem elsewhere?

    Remote chance, if yours is a late model, that the (shock absorbing?) rubber disk in the drive mechanism is deteriorating ie simply put, the drive shaft rips from the center of the rubber drive disk - the faulty center will lock step with the outer until too much force is experienced, then let go. Early models had a different more robust set up. This can only be checked by taking off the plate that covers the worm gear to drive wheel - some covers can be levered off and pressed back on, while others have integrated pressed rivets holding the cover on, and once broken you have to find some other way of re-securing the cover.

    The motors are also prone to having water drip on them in wet weather. Infrequent use, ie aircon on all the time, can see rust like muck accumulating inside the motor, resulting in partial or full lock up. Doesn't seem likely in your case.

    From my experience dealing with 94, 97 and 98 models.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by workingonit View Post
    Check that the roller channels have not been pinched somewhere along their length. Same with the rubber trim in the window frame. A pinch may not be sufficient to hinder downward progress, given the weight, but coming back up might just be enough. Are the wheels really in good condition, no flat spots because they're dragging rather that rolling? Do you actually have all wheels present and accounted for .

    Remote chance the door is bend out of shape slightly or the slim top frame is not quite in alignment with the bottom?

    As an experiment, you can get into the switch control in the centre consol and swap right window button to left window - if LHF goes fully up then maybe a problem elsewhere?

    Remote chance, if yours is a late model, that the (shock absorbing?) rubber disk in the drive mechanism is deteriorating ie simply put, the drive shaft rips from the center of the rubber drive disk - the faulty center will lock step with the outer until too much force is experienced, then let go. Early models had a different more robust set up. This can only be checked by taking off the plate that covers the worm gear to drive wheel - some covers can be levered off and pressed back on, while others have integrated pressed rivets holding the cover on, and once broken you have to find some other way of re-securing the cover.

    The motors are also prone to having water drip on them in wet weather. Infrequent use, ie aircon on all the time, can see rust like muck accumulating inside the motor, resulting in partial or full lock up. Doesn't seem likely in your case.

    From my experience dealing with 94, 97 and 98 models.
    Mine is a 94 build. This problem occurred suddenly, i.e. it was fine and then it wasn't, which made me think a roller had broken, but al seems well there. I'll have to take it out again, but when I had it out the rollers moved freely in the channel. I didn't pay much attention to the channels in the window frame, other than to run my finger up them to feel if there was anything stuck in there, but the window could be pushed up easily. I'll pull it all out again tomorrow and look for flat spots etc. Thanks for the detailed response.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  4. #4
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    Given that you can initially set the window fully up, the following may not be your problem, but worth checking.

    Been a while since dealing with a faulty scissor and trying to remember if position of the motor gear on the rack in relation to the scissor extent makes a difference. The motor drive has a small (brass?) gear that drives the galvanised steel scissor gear rack.

    For example, if the scissor is in the fully up position the gear should be found at one end of the rack, and in the fully down then the gear should be at the opposite end. If the brass gear is half way across the scissor gear rack when fully closed or open there could be a problem. Hope that makes sense.

    Going back to the possibility of the motor drive ripping out from the center of the rubber drive. Can you hear the motor continuing to run when the window has stopped moving? Probably with an accompanying click, click?

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by workingonit View Post
    Given that you can initially set the window fully up, the following may not be your problem, but worth checking.

    Been a while since dealing with a faulty scissor and trying to remember if position of the motor gear on the rack in relation to the scissor extent makes a difference. The motor drive has a small (brass?) gear that drives the galvanised steel scissor gear rack.

    For example, if the scissor is in the fully up position the gear should be found at one end of the rack, and in the fully down then the gear should be at the opposite end. If the brass gear is half way across the scissor gear rack when fully closed or open there could be a problem. Hope that makes sense.

    Going back to the possibility of the motor drive ripping out from the center of the rubber drive. Can you hear the motor continuing to run when the window has stopped moving? Probably with an accompanying click, click?
    Second answer fist. No, the motor just stops as it would if it had reached the top.

    Now, I think I get you drift about the drive gear. I was initially wondering if the gear had 'jumped' in some way, and the motor was getting the signal that the glass was fully up. However, it stops properly when the glass is fully down. So, do you know what causes the motor to stop at the limit of travel? My instinct is that the answer lies in there somewhere. The window stops in exactly the same place each time. There are no untoward noises, and there never have been. I've tried 'assisting' the window as it is going up, but it stops solid. With it apart everything seems to move freely. I guess I'll try operating it when it's in pieces, using the switch. And, yes, I know to keep my fingers out of the way. Ask me how. Although that was a windscreen wiper mechanism...

    Thanks again.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  6. #6
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    OK, got it apart again. The glass slides freely up and down. The scissor mechanism moves freely. The rollers, well they aren't really rollers, more like square blocks that slide in the channel, are all in good shape and well lubed. The motor spins freely in both directions on the switch. About the only thing visible is the teeth on the driven 'gear' on the scissor are markedly worn around the middle of the arc, which I would expect, but perhaps that's it? Maybe they are worn enough for the drive gear to jam. Only a new regulator is going to fix that, if that's the case.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by johntins View Post
    OK, got it apart again. The glass slides freely up and down. The scissor mechanism moves freely. The rollers, well they aren't really rollers, more like square blocks that slide in the channel, are all in good shape and well lubed. The motor spins freely in both directions on the switch. About the only thing visible is the teeth on the driven 'gear' on the scissor are markedly worn around the middle of the arc, which I would expect, but perhaps that's it? Maybe they are worn enough for the drive gear to jam. Only a new regulator is going to fix that, if that's the case.
    So, got another regulator ( s/h ) and put it in. Now the darn thing stops halfway down! Still, at least it closes, something to appreciate in Melb. at this time of year.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by johntins View Post
    S.... Now the darn thing stops halfway down! ....
    The appropriate facetious comment here would be to take one half of your original mechanism and combine it with the one half of the newly acquired mechanism.
    it may give you two possibilities:

    #1. it may work fully, both in the up and down directions .. Yay!
    #2. it may become totally stuck in the middle position and neither go up, nor down ... use the combo of halves in #1.

  9. #9
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    Hi John, when you put in the second hand reg did you get the motor with it or just the reg by itself? if you replaced it as a unit then there must be something else causing the problem.
    Cheers, Mario


  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by AK83 View Post
    The appropriate facetious comment here would be to take one half of your original mechanism and combine it with the one half of the newly acquired mechanism.
    it may give you two possibilities:

    #1. it may work fully, both in the up and down directions .. Yay!
    #2. it may become totally stuck in the middle position and neither go up, nor down ... use the combo of halves in #1.

    He he. Believe me, the thought crossed my mind. I'm tipping #2 would be the end result no matter which way I jumped..
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

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