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Thread: Inaccessible grease point on double-cardan joint

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by dranoweb View Post
    Ok that makes a little more sense. Well the inverted type of nipple previously suggested might be your best bet then.
    That's what it already has

    It's the centring bearing for a double cardan shaft which is impossible to access from below due to the angle of the shaft.

  2. #22
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    Maybe find a solution that makes it easy to remove?

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by rick130 View Post
    It's the centring bearing for a double cardan shaft which is impossible to access from below due to the angle of the shaft.
    How much does the angle improve if you roll the front right wheel up a car ramp on its own? Then use a bottle jack to allow the wheel to rotate to align the grease nipple to the best position.

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by bee utey View Post
    How much does the angle improve if you roll the front right wheel up a car ramp on its own? Then use a bottle jack to allow the wheel to rotate to align the grease nipple to the best position.
    Don't know and won't be doing it on the Deefer ever again.

    I think I got into it from the side once, but I could be mistaken???
    I just remember greasing it before installation and the last time it was done the floor came out as it was easier than dropping the shaft which had happened in the interim.

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by bee utey View Post
    How much does the angle improve if you roll the front right wheel up a car ramp on its own? Then use a bottle jack to allow the wheel to rotate to align the grease nipple to the best position.
    Worth a try, will give it a shot this week.

  6. #26
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    Ok I tried the front wheel up, no go. Maximum articulation of the right front wheel only gives around 10-15 degrees of movement to the propshaft and only opens the bottom of double-cardan joint by a millimeter or so.
    I tried the local Bunnings for the grease gun fitting set, couldn't find it but came away with an air gun set with a nozzle that might work.

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by POD View Post
    Ok I tried the front wheel up, no go. Maximum articulation of the right front wheel only gives around 10-15 degrees of movement to the propshaft.
    Understandable. You need to lift two wheels. If you lift the front left, you also need to lift the rear right. Lift them under the axle. Just far enough to allow the wheel to spin.

  8. #28
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    Not going to cut it I'm afraid, the front diff would have to go up by more than a foot from resting height to be able to get the supplied tool into the joint, the double cardan is of course the fulcrum point for propshaft movement so large movements at the other end make a very small difference at the joint. A quick look yesterday showed there was no chance of getting at it from the bottom by axle articulation. Back to trying to get a tool in from the top.

  9. #29
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    Unsure of which type you have - theyre likely to be either the flush type or the button head type.
    Mine are the flush type.

    Macnaught's needle coupling leaves junk everywhere, I used to use them on my Merc, but now I have these.
    MS24203-1 / MS24203-1 FLUSH FITTING NOZZLE, FLUSH FITTING COUPLER

    Either way, you can order the bit you need here:
    GREASE FITTING COUPLERS | GREASE FITTING COUPLERS, GREASE GUN COUPLERS, ZERK FITTING COUPLERS

    See if this is what matches your UJ fitting.
    FLUSH TYPE GREASE FITTINGS, FLUSH ZERK FITTINGS, NAS516-1A, NAS516-M1

    These are the button head type, which you can easily grease with a special 90ยบ fitting. If you have the button head type.
    Button Head Grease Fittings, Button Head Zerk Fittings, Giant Button Head Grease Fittings
    Roads?.. Where we're going, we don't need roads...
    MY92 RRC 3.9 Ardennes Green
    MY93 RRC LSE 300tdi/R380/LT230 British Racing Green
    MY99 D2 V8 Kinversand

  10. #30
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    Hope this picture of the grease port and tool attached
    Attached Images Attached Images

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