Thread: Advice on R380 output shaft collar/seal

Okay, I think I've pretty much answered my own question - finally found a photo I took back in 2012 (further back than I thought!) of the gearbox when first removed - it definitely looks like the collar was pressed further in previously. Looks like the oil seal is still in the same place.

Oil "watermarks" on the transfer-case end before and after also show the collar is not in the same place.

Next two questions are - how did I not get that thing pressed all the way in, and how do I rectify...?

From the overhaul manual, it looks like the factory tool threads in to the end of the output shaft? I used a press to put my collar on, but perhaps can make up a tool with a bolt of the correct thread to try and press the collar on further in situ, without having to remove the box...

Just tap it on until it seats, I have a machined collar (glorified piece of pipe that is the right diameter) dont over think it.
Just as a added thing though, I often replace that collar when doing box work, its cheap to buy and will be a nice new face for the seals.

So yes by the look of it and from memory the collar's seal face for the gearbox end, the edge of that seal face i think normally sits very close to the actual seal lip.

oh and re transfer case, the copper shims yes do wear out on the side gears, re centre diff, nothing to be worried about, replacing the two selective thrusts on each end of the centre diff also would have helped. I assume new bearings went through trans? the oil leak is prolly the shaft for the intermediate gear set, so the leak is on the transfer case between the gearbox and centre diff housing. If the oil leak is ****ing out from the gearbox output seal it drains down a channel at the back of the gearbox and out a hole.\

AND if it is coming from the gearbox as in the rear output seal, when you replaced the seal did you remove the collar first, replace seal then fitted collar back? if you replaced seal after fitting the collar it will leak

Regards
Daz

Originally Posted by DazzaTD5

Just tap it on until it seats, I have a machined collar (glorified piece of pipe that is the right diameter) dont over think it.
Just as a added thing though, I often replace that collar when doing box work, its cheap to buy and will be a nice new face for the seals.

I'm hoping so! I seem to recall that it was difficult even with the press when I was reinstalling it, but hopefully it won't be too bad. I also considered buying a new collar... and if this doesn't work this time, I'll be doing that and getting the seal for the gearbox and transfer case, and doing them all.

Originally Posted by DazzaTD5

So yes by the look of it and from memory the collar's seal face for the gearbox end, the edge of that seal face i think normally sits very close to the actual seal lip.

Yes, it looked odd as soon as I saw it... don't know how I didn't pick it up previously.

Originally Posted by DazzaTD5

oh and re transfer case, the copper shims yes do wear out on the side gears, re centre diff, nothing to be worried about, replacing the two selective thrusts on each end of the centre diff also would have helped. I assume new bearings went through trans?

I didn't do anything else to the transfer case at the time, being a bit strapped for cash and needing to have it back on the road for a trip... but everything seemed okay at the time. I'm sure I'll regret it at some stage...!

Originally Posted by DazzaTD5

the oil leak is prolly the shaft for the intermediate gear set, so the leak is on the transfer case between the gearbox and centre diff housing. If the oil leak is ****ing out from the gearbox output seal it drains down a channel at the back of the gearbox and out a hole.\

The leak is definitely from either the output shaft gearbox side or the transfer case input seal... the oil is coming out from the bottom of the mating surfaces there (I filled that channel and hole with silicone, but obviously didn't do enough on the rest of the mating surface)

Originally Posted by DazzaTD5

AND if it is coming from the gearbox as in the rear output seal, when you replaced the seal did you remove the collar first, replace seal then fitted collar back? if you replaced seal after fitting the collar it will leak

I definitely did it that way, as per the overhaul manual - the oil seal in the extension housing, then fit the extension housing, then drive the collar on afterwards... have read that doing the seal after the collar can damage the seal.

Thanks heaps for your reply and advice, Daz.

Tomorrow is scheduled to remove the transfer case and see if that collar is going to move - I'll post an update tomorrow night.

Cheers!
Michael.

Transfer case off today (much easier and quicker after you've already just done it...!).

Length of pipe with large hammer applied, and the coller slipped up about another 3-4 millimetres. No amount of further coercion produced any more movement. Also put the box into gear, and used a bolt on a plate on the end of said pipe, and a fair amount of force, with no further movement. My guess is that it's in as far as it can go.

Cleaned up the mating surfaces again, and will put the case back on during the week, and see how I go this time!

I also remembered that I did put new bearing through the transfer case... going through the manual again reminded me of what I'd done...

You might have already done it , but check you don't have excessive end float before putting the tc back, the resulting chatter can contribute to oil leak

Originally Posted by discorevy

You might have already done it , but check you don't have excessive end float before putting the tc back, the resulting chatter can contribute to oil leak

Good idea - though I did measure when I did the rebuild and it was good, it wouldn't hurt to check it again...

Doing a change over of an R380 box and transfer case into a D1, and looking to change over fluid seals for the box and the transfer case.
Haven't separated them as yet to remove and get seals ID.
Just wondering if anybody can advise the seal part numbers (usually printed on the seal) so I can check with local bearing/seals place for possible replacements.
(nearest LR option is 1650k's away, so have to try local first as might be quicker.)