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Thread: Re-fitting fuel injection pump

  1. 21st July 2017, 08:15 AM #1
    Brett1066's Avatar
    Brett1066
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    Re-fitting fuel injection pump

    Hi all, been a while (over 12 months) since I have done anything on my defender but have finally got back to work on it.
    Had my fuel injection pump repaired recently, and now I need to re-fit it, and I have a couple of questions. The manual says I have to fit the timing pin before bolting on to the car - problem is it won't go - see photo below
    20170720_153720.jpg
    To move this so that I can fit the timing pin in, do I just loosen off the screw and remove the keeper plate, fit the pin and then re-tighten the screw? I understand that this locks the gears into place - by undoing it will I stuff up any of the settings in the pump?
    20170720_153712.jpg

    This is the first time for me re-fitting the FIP, so if anyone has any tips or advice, it will be greatly appreciated.... Car is a 1994 Defender 110, 300tdi. Bosch VE fuel injection pump.

    Cheers in advance
    Brett
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  2. 21st July 2017, 10:46 AM #2
    jboot51
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    You shouldn't have to touch that bolt.
    Install the pump and then insert timing pin.
    '95 Defender 130 Single Cab
    HS2.8 TGV Powered
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    The other 2% made it home.

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  3. 21st July 2017, 10:49 AM #3
    jboot51
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    That bolt seems to be a VW thing.
    Hubs, pulleys, and pumps, OH MY! - page 1 - mTDI Mechanical TDI Conversions - VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
    '95 Defender 130 Single Cab
    HS2.8 TGV Powered
    ------------
    98% of all Land Rovers built are still on the road.
    The other 2% made it home.

    Cost difference between Britpart and Genuine seals: £2.04. Knowing that your brakes won't fail at any moment: Priceless.
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  4. 21st July 2017, 10:56 AM #4
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    Brett1066
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    Jboot, it is mentioned in the defender manual. Even if i fit the pump i still cant fit the timing pin without moving the front wheel or whatever its called. Can move it a small way by hand but not in the direction i need. Dont want to try forcing it.
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  5. 21st July 2017, 11:01 AM #5
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    20170720_154159.jpg
    It also mentions it for refitting but the photo file size is too big for me too attach
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  6. 21st July 2017, 11:12 AM #6
    damienb
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brett1066 View Post
    20170720_154159.jpg
    It also mentions it for refitting but the photo file size is too big for me too attach
    My recollection is you just turn the flange by hand until the pin goes in. It's max pump spring compression at TDC so it will always want to sit off this point and difficulty to turn will increase as you move towards TDC.
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  7. 21st July 2017, 11:15 AM #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by damienb View Post
    My recollection is you just turn the flange by hand until the pin goes in. It's max pump spring compression at TDC so it will always want to sit off this point and difficulty to turn will increase as you move towards TDC.
    Does it matter which way i turn it? Have had dramas for a while with this pump and now its repaired i dont want to risk screwing anything up....again....Re-fitting fuel injection pump
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  8. 21st July 2017, 11:25 AM #8
    damienb
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brett1066 View Post
    Does it matter which way i turn it? Have had dramas for a while with this pump and now its repaired i dont want to risk screwing anything up....again....Re-fitting fuel injection pump
    You will want to turn it clockwise anyway since you're almost there and this is the normal engine rotation. You can use a 9.5mm(?) drill bit inserting shank end if you want to install it with pin present, which makes things a bit easier.

    I last did it 3 years ago, so a bit rusty (things last forever once you sort them out finally).
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  9. 21st July 2017, 11:35 AM #9
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  10. 21st July 2017, 12:25 PM #10
    jboot51
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    Quote Originally Posted by damienb View Post
    You will want to turn it clockwise anyway since you're almost there and this is the normal engine rotation. You can use a 9.5mm(?) drill bit inserting shank end if you want to install it with pin present, which makes things a bit easier.

    I last did it 3 years ago, so a bit rusty (things last forever once you sort them out finally).

    Agreed.
    '95 Defender 130 Single Cab
    HS2.8 TGV Powered
    ------------
    98% of all Land Rovers built are still on the road.
    The other 2% made it home.

    Cost difference between Britpart and Genuine seals: £2.04. Knowing that your brakes won't fail at any moment: Priceless.
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
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