Re-stamping chassis number

**rijidij** · 8th August 2017, 04:42 PM

Has anyone faced the situation where your chassis number had to be re-stamped, for example, if the chassis was galvanised making the number unreadable, or if the chassis was rusted and the number was barely visible, or if the chassis was in need of repair where the number is, etc etc.

I have a chassis on which the numbers are very shallow and only just readable. I would like to get it galvanised, but the numbers will definitely not be visible afterwards. I'd prefer not to remove the gal coating for obvious reasons, but the VIN will need to be visible.
It would be easy if the numbers were the same size as a standard set of number and letter punches, but they're bigger and thinner.
I would presume it's illegal to 'tamper' with the VIN, even if you're re-stamping the same number, but lots of people must have faced this problem when restoring old cars.

Cheers, Murray

**manic** · 8th August 2017, 10:14 PM

Yes. In UK, new galv chassis was stamped to match. The vin on old chassis was cut out and kept.

Before galv you could trace paper the vin for reference on position and spacing. restamp with closest match you can find.

Would be interested to hear the official advice from VicRoads. They might be happy just having the vin plate on the pedal booster.

**Tins** · 8th August 2017, 10:25 PM

The engineer I spoke to couldn't have cared less, provided the number could be verified, and VicRoads? Seriously, if the numbers and paperwork line up you could register a Mog as a Mini. They seriously are not paid to think. Many visits to their site in South Dandenong have convinced me of this.
If you have paperwork that attaches those numbers to your car, an engineer's cert for any mods, and they can come out and sight the numbers they need you'll be fine. Go to a big one when they are busy, or to a small one where you can talk.

**Mick_Marsh** · 8th August 2017, 11:45 PM

If it was me, I'd just restamp them.

Mr Tins is quite right. All Vicroads are interested in is confirming the chassis numbers and engine numbers line up.

If you possibly want to make your life difficult or maybe get peace of mind, go to the fellow you are going to get the RWC from. Ask him. He may just want to see the numbers before it is galvanised. He may even have the stamps and restamp the chassis for you after it's galvanised. On the other hand he may tell you you can't do it.

What do Geelong Galvanising in Corio do? You might ask them. I seem to remember asking them this question some years ago. Can't remember the reply. It was either they restamp it or they weld a removable tab over the chassis number to protect it in the process.

**p38arover** · 9th August 2017, 10:31 AM

Which VIN to they cover? The one at the front or the one at the back - or both?

**Mick_Marsh** · 9th August 2017, 10:36 AM

Originally Posted by p38arover

Which VIN to they cover? The one at the front or the one at the back - or both?

Are there two on each chassis? What model/year are we talking about?
If so, I guess both would have to be covered.

When I asked, I was talking chassis number, not VIN.

**rijidij** · 9th August 2017, 10:40 AM

As far as I know there's only the one VIN on the chassis at drivers side front.

**p38arover** · 9th August 2017, 11:03 AM

I've been told there is one on the rear trailing arm mounting. I've not checked and I don't have a Defender to look at.

**rijidij** · 9th August 2017, 11:15 AM

The chassis I have here are '85 and '87 110s. I'll have a closer look later and see if I can find anything.

**bee utey** · 9th August 2017, 11:27 AM

My suggestion would be to record the chassis number, make sure you get a receipt from the galvanisers showing that chassis number on the docket, then restamp it. Bureaucrats love a paper trail.

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