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Thread: Puma diffs

  1. #1
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    Puma diffs

    Hey guys,

    I've got a bit of a predicament on my hands. Truck is a 2012 puma 130 currently on 33×12.5 tyres. I've recently broken my front diff and the initial plan was to chuck a salisbury in the back at the same time, fit 3.9 gears from gbr utah, axles all round ashcroft cvs, harrop lockers front and rear, and go up to 35s.

    Im now thinking on sticking with 33s and keeping standard 3.54 ratios maybe just installing the hd ashcroft crown and pinion in the front but still putting lockers front and rear as well as axles until I've upgraded suspension and later on changing diff gears and chucking 35s on if I feel I need them.

    Question how strong are standard salisbury 3.54 gears.

  2. #2
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    The main upgrade in a Salsisbury is the size of the crown wheel and pinion . A rover diff has 8" gears and iirc sals 11"

  3. #3
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    The Salisbury CW&P will be almost indestructible. Even with Ashcroft axles, the Salisbury CW&P is far stronger than the axles.

    Where the Salisbury has been known to fail is in the half shafts and flanges and also in the 110 axle tubes, but the 130" Salisbury has much heavier walled axle tubes. You will do the uni joints and propshaft before the CWP also.
    Cheers
    Slunnie


    ~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~

  4. #4
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    And to get diff clearance back you can safely cut 19mm off the bottom of the Sals, if you so desire.
    A HD diff cover completes the conversion.

    Problems solved.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by rick130 View Post
    And to get diff clearance back you can safely cut 19mm off the bottom of the Sals, if you so desire.
    A HD diff cover completes the conversion.

    Problems solved.
    Correct, i have 7mm difference in ground clearance between my sals and rover front diff

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Northy View Post

    Question how strong are standard salisbury 3.54 gears.
    Theses are 4.11's but the size difference is relative between the sals and rover front.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    MLD

    Current: (Diggy) MY10 D130 ute, locked F&R, air suspension and rolling on 35's.
    Current: (but in need of TLC) 200tdi 110 ute & a 300tdi 110 ute.
    Current: (Steed) MY11 Audi RS5 phantom black (the daily driver)
    Gone: (Dorothy) MY99 TD5 D110

  7. #7
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    Thanks guys I'll go with the salisbury with standard ratios for now. Give her a skim and chuck a riddler cover on and order a eaton, axles and flanges

  8. #8
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    Do that and it'll last forever.

    A few of the boys on here don't like the Sals because of the size and weight, but it is virtually indestructible, even though Land Rover and GKN tried to nobble it by installing undersized and undersplined axle shafts...

    I'm a little biased that way too as I came from Jeeps and Dana diffs, although I've been with the green oval for far, far longer.

  9. #9
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    I was in a similar position to you Northy a while ago. I almost installed the salisbury in the rear but in the end i did the following:
    Gbr utah pegging kit
    Elocker
    Hy tuff axles and hd flanges

    Now i know this isnt as strong as an equivalent salisbury but id say it'd be pretty close to the strength of a standard sals. I did it this way becuase i wanted to retain as much clearance as possible, easy to fix compared to the sals and its easier to get parts due to it being newer. There are also hundreds of thousands of p38s that have been used in many LR vehicles that have been reliable.
    After deciding to keep the p38 and strengthening it my next concern was what ratio to put in. After speaking to many people and getting advice from Ashcroft and Ben at 4wd industries i decided to keep the standard ratio. The biggest problem with the p38 is the crown wheel has a tendency under load to deflect from the pinion, so i addressed this issue with the pegging.

    After sorting the rear i decided to sort out the front. Went with an elocker, ashcroft half shafts, ashcroft cvs and hd flanges. I didnt bother to peg the front as the standard rover crown wheel is quiet thick.
    After the front i decided to sort out the mt 82 output shaft and install an ashcroft output shaft and a center diff ATB.

    I could not be happier with my setup. For the power a defender has i beleive this setup is more than enough for my needs; touring amd 4wd track days. I virtually have no clunking at all and as bad as it sounds it drives very Japanese like.

    Im interested to see how you go down the sals root. What locker will you use? Etc

    The other thing that lead to my decision was the fact that 33s are plenty for what i do. I didnt want to lift my truck and change its geometry as its perfect for what i do and open the "suspension can of worms". Rather i installed hd springs, airbags in the rear and Bilstein b6 shocks, great setup. Love the b6's.

    Back to tyre size....If i cant get through on 33s and twin locked then it must be a tough track and i probably should pick a better line. For touring having a truck twin locked is overkill but nice piece of mind.

    Also the fact that i didnt have to play around with tailshaft lengths etc also drove me to my decision. I like to strengthen my truck and not change it too much from standard geometry, same height, stronger driveline components and more capable hopefully offering long term relaibilty.

    In regards to how strong the salisbury C&P is i dont know but i know that it is massively over sized. In saying that the crown and pinion are only as strong as the surrounding parts.


    Sorry for the long post.

  10. #10
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    Nando,

    Im going to go salisbury because if I feel I want to go up to 35s in the future, there are more ratios available. I talked to Bill at GBR Utah and he can supply a matching set of 3.9s which I think would be a bit nicer for touring that 4.11s if i ever decide to i need/want 35s.

    Going to chuck e-lockers in front and rear, ashcroft cv's, and probably hy tuff axles just due to postage etc.

    I already have an ashcroft atb in the transfer and the intermediate shaft, as well as a drive shaft built with 3" tube and 1310 universals and a Gwyn Lewis front double cardan unit.

    So hopefully my driveline should be robust once the diffs are done. thanks everyone for your help

    Quote Originally Posted by 1nando View Post
    I was in a similar position to you Northy a while ago. I almost installed the salisbury in the rear but in the end i did the following:
    Gbr utah pegging kit
    Elocker
    Hy tuff axles and hd flanges

    Now i know this isnt as strong as an equivalent salisbury but id say it'd be pretty close to the strength of a standard sals. I did it this way becuase i wanted to retain as much clearance as possible, easy to fix compared to the sals and its easier to get parts due to it being newer. There are also hundreds of thousands of p38s that have been used in many LR vehicles that have been reliable.
    After deciding to keep the p38 and strengthening it my next concern was what ratio to put in. After speaking to many people and getting advice from Ashcroft and Ben at 4wd industries i decided to keep the standard ratio. The biggest problem with the p38 is the crown wheel has a tendency under load to deflect from the pinion, so i addressed this issue with the pegging.

    After sorting the rear i decided to sort out the front. Went with an elocker, ashcroft half shafts, ashcroft cvs and hd flanges. I didnt bother to peg the front as the standard rover crown wheel is quiet thick.
    After the front i decided to sort out the mt 82 output shaft and install an ashcroft output shaft and a center diff ATB.

    I could not be happier with my setup. For the power a defender has i beleive this setup is more than enough for my needs; touring amd 4wd track days. I virtually have no clunking at all and as bad as it sounds it drives very Japanese like.

    Im interested to see how you go down the sals root. What locker will you use? Etc

    The other thing that lead to my decision was the fact that 33s are plenty for what i do. I didnt want to lift my truck and change its geometry as its perfect for what i do and open the "suspension can of worms". Rather i installed hd springs, airbags in the rear and Bilstein b6 shocks, great setup. Love the b6's.

    Back to tyre size....If i cant get through on 33s and twin locked then it must be a tough track and i probably should pick a better line. For touring having a truck twin locked is overkill but nice piece of mind.

    Also the fact that i didnt have to play around with tailshaft lengths etc also drove me to my decision. I like to strengthen my truck and not change it too much from standard geometry, same height, stronger driveline components and more capable hopefully offering long term relaibilty.

    In regards to how strong the salisbury C&P is i dont know but i know that it is massively over sized. In saying that the crown and pinion are only as strong as the surrounding parts.


    Sorry for the long post.

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