Hi
Mine is the same.Apparently the fix is to get flywire PVC cord and slide it up the inside of the seal thru a slit.
Should be able to get it from your local hardware.
Andrew
The rear door seal on my 2000 D2 leaks like a sieve (when it rains or washing the car) inline with the outside door handle and drips onto the blind if it's pulled out or the carpet. The seal looks in good nick and I read in a UK LR mag that this is a common problem to look for. Can anyone tell me what the fix is for this problem?
many thanks
Hi
Mine is the same.Apparently the fix is to get flywire PVC cord and slide it up the inside of the seal thru a slit.
Should be able to get it from your local hardware.
Andrew
DISCOVERY IS TO BE DISOWNED
Midlife Crisis.Im going to get stuck into mine early and ENJOY it.
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I made the 1 millionth AULRO post
Yep Bunnings Toy StoreOriginally posted by LandyAndy
Hi
Mine is the same.Apparently the fix is to get flywire PVC cord and slide it up the inside of the seal thru a slit.
Should be able to get it from your local hardware.
Andrew![]()
Mahn England
DEFENDER 110 D300 SE '23 (the S M E G)
Ex DEFENDER 110 wagon '08 (the Kelvinator)
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members-rides/105691-one_iotas-110-inch-kelvinator.html
Ex 300Tdi Disco:
The flyscreen tubing is to seal the cuts in the rubber seals, particularly in the bottom of the doors area. The rear door leaks seenm to be from the seals not even touching the body work. I'm not sure what the solution is though - perhaps additional rubber on the bodywork along the top of the rear door perhaps???
Cheers
Slunnie
~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~
i just ran the flyscreen stuff through all my door seals except the rear (haven't had a prob there). Also siliconed up the stupid gaps in the door seals! Does LR have shares in Dow Chemical (selleys) or what?
I'll let you know if the rears leak during my HC trip next w/e.
BTW, if you use some nice fine copper wire, you can first feed the wire then pull the flyscreen stuff back thru pretty easily.
Lucky they're soooo good in other ways hey???
D4 SDV6, a blank canvas
Hi Wardy
Thanks for the copper wire tip 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8)
I was only going to do the rear,in doing the fronts does it stop the wind noise when going into a strong head or sross wind???
Andrew
DISCOVERY IS TO BE DISOWNED
Midlife Crisis.Im going to get stuck into mine early and ENJOY it.
Snow White MY14 TDV6 D4
Alotta Fagina MY14 CAT 12M Motor Grader
2003 Stacer 525 Sea Master Sport
I made the 1 millionth AULRO post
I have used the flywire seal in all the Fenders door seals and it does make a lot of difference, bulks up the average rubber seals. I found that a can of WD40 using the little straw in the rubber before inserting helps heaps.
The seals would work a lot better if the doors actually lined up correctly. Looking at my Fender the doors have a diiference of up to 5mm, very dodgy. I am looking at getting something for the top of the drivers side door which whistles nicely in wind. There is one point in the front corner you can see light. Another job to do.
2011 Discovery 4 TDV6
2009 DRZ400E Suzuki
1956 & 1961 P4 Rover (project)
1976 SS Torana (project - all cash donations or parts accepted)
2003 WK Holden Statesman
Departed
2000 Defender Extreme: Shrek (but only to son)
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98 Ducati 900SS Gone & Missed
Facta Non Verba
Thanks alot guys I'll give it a go. Can't understand it though as my 11 yo D1 never leaked there, only at the alpine windows. But then it is a British car :wink:
have just got around to buying the fly screen piping but have had a rethink....saw some Selley's foam gap tubing, in 6 & 10 mm diameters. was wondering if the 10mm would do the trick as the 6mm (flyscreen piping) doesn't look big enough.to bulk out the seal..your thoughts??
ps:-
There is an LR data sheet available that I just got from the 'Links' section of this forum from a chap in the UK which details the fix..removing the seal and building up low areas in the seal flange with Mastik, apparently some of the flanges are misaligned.
Further to my above.......I used the 10mm diameter styrene roll by placing it behind the hollow section of the seal and it worked perfectly ( I was loathe to cut the seal and slip it through as then I'd only have to seal up the slit). I have run it about 3 inches beyond each corner. As it was white you could see it so I found some 12mm diameter black rubber from Clark Rubber and it blends in perfectly.
I also placed some 15mm diameter styrene behind the very top dust seal in an effort to bulk it up and (hopefully) make this one more effective too.
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