Defender Extrem Main Headlight Switch Block

**CraigE** · 6th February 2006, 08:30 PM

Has any one else had problems with the main headlight switch block failing?
I pulled mine out the other day after lights failed, after checking fuses relays etc. The main power feed into the block had obviously gotten hot and the pins had recessed into the white poly block, thus not allowing the switch contact to make contact, no lights. Anyone got an alternative switch block or modification? Speaking to the original owner he had it happen to him twice. Third time and the Fender is not even 6 years old is pretty poor and it had a different switch for the last 2 years the previous owner had it (did not look right so the LR dealer replaced it prior to sale). So 3 in 4 years!!
It appears that the whole unit must be replaced not just the poly block. Will have a look tonight and see if I can modify it. Any difference between early Defenders and TD5 Defenders. I can not see any difference but the pricing is about $140 dearer.
Craig

tombraider · 6th February 2006, 08:36 PM

Quick question....

What globes u running in the headlights?

Cheers
Mike

**hiline** · 6th February 2006, 08:37 PM

mines a 2000 TD5 130 never had a problem with my lights

**Fendi** · 6th February 2006, 08:45 PM

Here in Germany this problem happens often.

The best you can do, is changing to the switch of the TDI...
These have been stronger.

**CraigE** · 6th February 2006, 08:55 PM

Tombraider : just standard 55/60 s at the momment in the headlights with 100w Narva spotties. Nothing over the top.
Fendi - thanks for that comment, I am looking at the four wheel drives catalogue at the moment and the Defender all model replacement is $88AUD and the TD5 is $220 go figure. They look the same. May just order the $88 and get what would be the tdi unit. Have never seen anything like this in any other vehicle before.
Not a huge issue just damn annoying as auto sparkies have nothing similar in a switch block and can only replace the whole thing with a generic item.
It is only the plastic block mount for the pins. Now if they could just supply this the rest would last a lifetime. Have just got the little pins out and will solder them in and see if it will last until I get another. Might just get a generic push/pull unit.
Cheers
Craig

**Utemad** · 7th February 2006, 03:21 PM

Sounds like the switch is switching the main power for the headlights and not just switching relays.

Pirahna sell a loom that has its own relays so it only uses the original wiring to switch the new loom. Installing this loom should make your lights brighter too due to less voltage drop.

You could make your switch work again and buy this loom. I think the loom is around the $120 mark ???. We have them in our work utes.
Alternatively you could just make the loom yourself. The switch wouldn't have to be perfect as it wouldn't be switching 10 amps or more anymore.

This should prevent the problem from ever recurring again plus giving brighter lights as well

**sclarke** · 7th February 2006, 05:46 PM

make your own loom or get a Piranha one... not cheap, but what is a switch worth??

dont run the Driving lights thru the switch. make sure its run thru a relay.

**one_iota** · 7th February 2006, 06:11 PM

I followed Projects 2 and 3 here:

http://www.aulro.com/modules.php?name=Foru...=viewforum&f=24

It uses the existing low current draw wiring to activate higher capacity wiring loom via relays

The results were most satisfactory and I can say that my ADR compliant headlights are now illuminating.

**George130** · 7th February 2006, 06:27 PM

The problem will be the outer most blue wire Furthest to the left. If you twist it slightly clockwise it will tighten up and everything will work again. I did mine 4 months ago and it hasn't played up since. At the time I was trying all sorts of things to solve the problem and discovered this just before building my own switch.

**Frenchie** · 7th February 2006, 07:53 PM

I replaced my switch recently (same problem) and it cost me $78 from Britparts (for a Td5 one).

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