Would that mean it's done 310 circuits of the state :?: :roll:Originally posted by Phoenix
310,000 km's on the clock.![]()
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I'm looking at a defender at the moment (although unless luck swings my way this is nothing more than research).
This is the vehicle
http://www.tassiecars.com.au/detail.jsp?id...FrJkylDJcKcnxt4
Defenders here are usually overpriced, this one seemed ok, but no odo reading, so I sent the dealer an e-mail and found out why the price is reasonable.
310,000 km's on the clock. This is a 200TDi (unless i'm mistaken), and in the photo it looks ok. Nexst friday I may be in hobart to have a look at it and maybe a drive. what should I be looking out for apart from the obvious?
1994 Discovery TDi
2004 Discovery 2 TD5
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1961, Series 2 Ambulance. 108-098 - Eden
Registry of Ex Military Land Rovers Mem. 129
Defence Transport Heritage Tasmania Member
Would that mean it's done 310 circuits of the state :?: :roll:Originally posted by Phoenix
310,000 km's on the clock.![]()
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Other than the usual things for a used vehicle, Defender specific things to check for are:
Rust: bulkhead under the windscreen and footwells. The chassis, especially the rear crossmember, the door frames (these will be rusty, but it's a matter of how much you can put up with).
Drive train: clunks in take up and over run. If it's a drum brake rear (most likely) you wont have problems with the rear drive members chopping out like the 300tdis, but the mainshaft wear problem may be an issue. Front halfshafts are 10splines and show wear easily.
Engine: 200tdis dont have the belt issues that 300tdis have, but check for heavy breathing. All tdis deposit some oil in the aircleaner from the cyclone filter, but if there's a sh#itload of oil in there, then you'll be up for rings. Take the oil filler cap off after the engine is warmed up and running. If it's blowing there, then you'll know you're up for some work.
Listen for bearing noises from the alternator. It's in a stupid position on a 200tdi, and spends its life inhaling dust. They're unique in mounting and hard to get in Australia, so if it's gone too far you'll have to spend a packet to replace it, or preferably modify things to fit a better, more commonly available jobbie (like one out of a Disco).
Well, there's a start. Who wants to add to the list?![]()
Paul![]()
It will most likely have an lt77 5spd box, these are known for worn splines and will cost a bit to reco or replace with an r380.
i was told all 200's and 300's have some fuming from the filler cap...
Still has that step and doesn't have sill guards. That's got to mean that previous owner wasn't doing silly things with rocks or logs. You might just get yourself that legendary Defender owned by some city fool who never went off road.
Steering slop. PS box or reco costs a bomb.
Go fast over a couple of speed bumps for play in suspension and stuff.
Rust in footwells.
Cheers
Simon
It's a funny colour.
I thought Defenders only came in white.![]()
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Reckon it's a couple of k too much, too. Almost cheaper to find one on the mainland and boat it down for that price.
Cheers
Simon
Phoenix - that is the exact same model and type as mine. If you need to have a close look - mine's sitting with Michelle at Meander.
They are a disc rear end, coil all around vehicle.
Only drum brake is the hand-brake which possibly could be worn.
Mine has over 450k on it at the moment, and still going storng on the original engine.
Problems with them (and this is being picky too)
Splines on the axles worn or twisted (check play in them)
Spider caps are the same, the spline gets worn
Diff play - be expecting a little, and also be thinking of the pinion bearing as well, you may find some play there.
Uni-Joints - around that many km's is when mine packed them in - have a look at them.
Transfer Case - as you know, mine decided to cook itself in the NT. Check the oil and the condition of it - and when you take it for a run - feel how hot it gets (feel around the transmission cowling from inside the vehicle - you'll feel it through the rubber matting if there's a problem - trust me)
Rear door hinges will most likely have dropped a small amount if the spare tyre still hangs from it.
Wheel bearings - have a check and make sure there isn't too much play in them.
Power Steering Pump - prone to leaking from two different spots. One is the return pipe out of the back of the pipe - what happens is that when off-road the corrugations/bumps can eventually wear it down and it will crack and/or break off at the join with the pump rear casing. The other area it can leak is round the front of the pump, where the casing meets near the pulley. There is an O'ring there that tends to wear away after a while - and it's something that'll come up sooner or later. Very easy to fix.
Oil in the air cleaner as mentioned before - I've done a slight modification on mine to allow for that. Basically put a t junction in the line and a short hose that is blocked off. Each service I take the bolt out of this line and see how much oil is in it.
Synchros in the transmission - especially second gear when coming down. Another words third to second - it's usually the first to go. Again it's something that's annoying more than anything else.
Plus's - you know that it's gonna be easy to get anything fixed on it - and any problems you're likely to have I've probably already fixed before you. The engine has plenty of go and I can certainly say that it's a dman good vehicle - look at the hell I've put mine through.
On another note - my step-father lives down in Sorell, and is one of the best mechanics in Tassie (not my words either - but he is bloody good!). If you want I can organise for him to have a look at it with you, or you can take it either to his work or home to look over it and tell you what's right or wrong with it!
Cheers
Chris
P.S - the 93 model Defenders rock!![]()
Talk him down to 10,500 as well! :wink:
Looks like it's probably never been off-road either!No roof-rack, road-orientated tyres etc!
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That's not necessarily correct. It depends on whether the Defender was built in 93 or first registered in 93. 200tdi Defenders can have either rear disc or rear drum brakes, depending on the build date. Late 200s will have solid rear discs and ventilated front discs, they will also have been factory fitted with a stub axle oil seal on the rear, meaning the drive member splines will run dry and wear out quickly just like 300s do. Early 200s will have solid disc fronts and drum rears, and will never have been fitted with the stupid stub axle oil seal, meaning the splines will have always been oil lubed and likely to still be in excellent condition (but the bearings will be greased due to the dual oil seals in the hub).Originally posted by cewilson
They are a disc rear end, coil all around vehicle.
Only drum brake is the hand-brake which possibly could be worn.
Other differences between early and late 200s are in the swivel housings. The early ones have railko bushes on the top and bearings on the bottom, the lates have bearings top and bottom. The early ones have 10/32 spline half shafts with bronze bushes on the CVs, the lates have 24/32 spline half shafts with needle roller bearings on the CVs. The CVs are the same for both.
Paul![]()
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