Thread: TD5 Oil Pump Bolt Check

Seems like what should be a fairly straight foward job is made even more problematical by some previous rough work.
But one would wonder why the sump has been off, does this equate to its maintenance history?
There always seem to be pitfalls for the unwary. Its like the positioning of the oil filter on the 300tdi. You dont expect to have oil dripping off your elbows every time you change it, but it does. I know of one which had all its serviceing done at a dealers, but when it was done interstate during a trip the mechanic showed the owner the filter he had removed, solid with sludge. When shown to the dealer, it was insisted the filter was changed etc. etc. blah blah.
Luckily, that Defender seems no worse for the neglect, but now with a new mechanic.
sheff

Good work! Don't you love how all mechanical jobs always have a few nasty suprises? Couple of points though. Is loctite 262 suitable for within a engine? Might be worth a check.

Does anyone have a range of engine numbers or chassis numbers where this problem existed?

What date did Land Rover recognise this and put in a fix?

Hi CraigE
Im getting a service done on mine before Esperance,unfortunately the hoist at work isnt working so Im getting the local mechanic to do it.
I have 2 leaky pinion seals to be done so the prop shafts need to come off any way.
Got prices from Karcraft,VERY good,will be ordering parts over the weekend.
Andrew

Originally posted by spudboy
Does anyone have a range of engine numbers or chassis numbers where this problem existed?

What date did Land Rover recognise this and put in a fix?

G'day spudboy,

There's been lots of discussion on it, just have a quick squiz back through the technical forum you'll see a post by MickG that went on for a good 7 pages worth.

Basically though from what I remember, it was only on early model TD5's - anything before mid 2000 should get checked to ensure the bolt is locktited.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>Is loctite 262 suitable for within a engine? Might be worth a check.
[/b][/quote]
Yeah, checked with the fitters at work and loctites website, just to make double sure befor going ahead. Loctite 242 is medium strength thread lock and whatt is recommended. 262 is medium to high strength thread lock. Quote from their site below. I have used it in most applications as it is above what is recommended and plentiful. Have not had too harder time getting things unjointed againg. I believe 272 is near impossable to get apart without heating gear.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>262 Permanent Strength (up to 20mm)

A permanent, high strength product that is applied to fasteners 10mm to 25mm (3/8" to 1") in size. Localized heating and hand tools are required to separate parts. Solvents will not weaken the adhesive bond. Available Worldwide

Applications
All fasteners that must withstand heavy shock, vibration, or extreme environmental or chemical conditions.
[/b][/quote]

Job completed Saturday morning. After 2 hours trying to get the sump right off the Fender made the decision to do it with the sump just lowered. Plenty of room although a little awkward at times with a little manoeveuring to get the gasket in. All up only took about 3/4 of an hour to get back together. Without the hold ups and chatting, coffee etc the whole job should take about 1 1/2 - 2 hrs. It was the bulacrappy things that hold you up. The main exhaust pipe is a mongrel of a set up to get to the back nut and we all know what heated nuts are like to get off. Most of it was no room to get any leverage. I had a bar about 2 foot long to reach the third exhasut nut but then could not get any leverage. As for the prop shaft bolt, well they will be getting cut off next job and replaced. They have been way overtightened, no need with nylocs. Job done, now to replace the clutch slave cylinder. Clutch fluid has been dropping a little lately over time. Assuming slave if not up to the master.
Who has had theirs relined with stainless sleeves and where did you get them done.. Cheap nasty pieces of work they are.

RE your clutch slave/master cylinder or any other brake cylinder that developes an incurable leak.
Water has entered the system, settled at a lowest point and corroded a ring around the piston rubber. The fluid used is hygroscopic, but the water will come out and do the damage.
Pays to change regularly with a complete flush out, manuals recommend it. Very common in series L/R's. :wink:
sheff

Hi Grizzly - I re-read that 7 page thread, but no details on engine nos or chassis nos. It seemed to generally concur that it was 1999 and 2000 models with the problem.

I thought I saw some specific details on lrenthusiastforum.com, but that site seems to shut down now. When I read about it I only had a 300TDi, so I didn't pay much attention, but now I've got a Oct 2000 build TD5....