Thread: I need a new clutch for my 95' 110 best options please...

I just brought a HD Clutch, about 300 odd dollars. Would also look at getting HD Clutch fork. Same as standard, except it has a metal tab across the rear.

The one I got was a Valeo brand.

Originally Posted by Km2579

So I have just bought my first defender, It needs a new clutch and the brakes aren't good either

Any advice welcome. Located Northern NSW // Gold Coast

Cheers Kane

Unless you have access to an engine crane or hoist I would leave the clutch to a specialist
Might get them to check the rear main oil seal while the box/engine is out. It could be the cause of the bad clutch.
HD clutch and fork is a good idea, especially if you are towing.
Brakes are disc/drum and the adjustment of the drums is critical to the good operation of the brakes
Rear slave cylinders are prone to leaking. Check them by looking for brake fluid on the inside of the rear wheel rims
If they are leaking replace all of them and the shoes.
Hope this helps!!

Originally Posted by Phil B

Unless you have access to an engine crane or hoist I would leave the clutch to a specialist
Might get them to check the rear main oil seal while the box/engine is out. It could be the cause of the bad clutch.
HD clutch and fork is a good idea, especially if you are towing.
Brakes are disc/drum and the adjustment of the drums is critical to the good operation of the brakes
Rear slave cylinders are prone to leaking. Check them by looking for brake fluid on the inside of the rear wheel rims
If they are leaking replace all of them and the shoes.
Hope this helps!!

Naa, '95 are disc/disc.

And to add to what the other blokes have said, pop the flywheel, get it machined and definitely do the rear main too.

AP used to be a very good clutch too, but I think they've changed hands again.

I'd buy a new flywheel,rear main and clutch kit direct from the UK,much cheaper. Pat

Originally Posted by rick130

Naa, '95 are disc/disc.

My bad
I read '85 110

Re brakes, check the booster isn't cracked, that's a really common problem.

Get someone to stand on the brake pedal and watch the booster where the m/c bolts on for flex/movement.
Check around that location for cracking.

Only buy a TRW or genuine one. Some of the aftermarket ones are worse than a cracked genuine one.

Mine is a different clutch being a 2009 Puma, but the choices for me were LR v AP. The LR one was cheaper, but I went AP because I was advised the springs would be even stronger.
Suggest you compare the ones for your model.