Thread: TDI300 - Specific timing belt kit requirements?

yes you can use the kit you have purchased as long as you have all three pulleys.

Tensioner's don't have shoulders only the crank pulley should.

Can't comment on the block prefix.

Have used the kit you describe on vehicles from 1994 to 2007.

See if anyone comments on your block specifically requiring shoulders on the tension roller - maybe it makes fitting the belt a little easier compared to having shoulders on the crank pulley?

Go easy on torquing the tensioner securing bolt - torque wrench specs only - suspect previous owner on one of my vehicles over did things, so when I did the service using torque specs the alloy thread let go. Fortunately the hole that was left suited tapping to the next size and the pulley was able to take the next size bolt, but not a nice feeling when it happens.

Also make sure the o-ring seats itself properly in the recess in the back of the crank pulley.

Don't locktite the crank bolt. Use the correct torquing procedure.

Pics?

Minor suggestion. If you've removed radiator hoses to get the fan shroud out of engine bay, then consider splitting the shroud on one side so you can pinch it closed to reduce size; secure the split with a latch. The plastic shroud is very tough and capable of the extra flex without damage. You can do future work at the front without the mess of undoing radiator hoses. Also, add a screw to secure the shroud 'skull cap' that can come adrift.

Thanks for info all that is great to hear that I can use the 4096L gears and belt. Here are a cpl of pics of what is there...looks ok? The paint markers are mine from Black Knights advice tutorial etc.

Thanks also for advice on shroud etc. Radiator is out and getting a precautionary tanks off and clean type inspection.



discoBelt2.jpg
discoBelt3.jpg

Its worth putting anti seize on the crank pulley, going onto the crank makes it easier coming off next time

Other interesting find is that this is the first timing belt change. I know this engine had only done about 30K km from a 'brand new' installation (from detail logs and receipts previous owner gave me when I got it, having cooked it bigtime). So now at 110Km this will be the first timing belt. What is surprising is that with a new/reco engine in 2011 or whenever the old style pulleys were fitted. I would have thought these had been superceded many years before then. Also when I got the belt off it is stamped Land Rover. Wonder if it was a old factory donk sitting in a warehouse somewhere?? May explain why it goes relatively good for an old TDI with great economy and oil stays very clean between changes.

That engine configuration is interesting insofar as mine is a late 1996 build, engine no. 18L2****A.
It has the revised IP brackets, hole chamfers for the idler assemblies. no flanges on idler pulley with spot welded flanges on the crankshaft pulley.
Like any good tdi, mine pulls like a train, keeps the oil relatively clean and if the outlet pipe from the cyclonic oil separator is removed no blowby visible from the warm engine.
This one stays with me for my duration.
Mike

Ugghh...minor edit to my first post, should read 1994 to 1997 (not 2007).

Would be interested to know if LRover ever detailed exactly was causing timing belt walk off, after trying changes to cogs, to torque on belt tensioner, to injector pump bracket, to clam shell strengthening.