Silver solder only for stainless...
I would silver solder only the brass as well, but that’s just me
Thanks for the responses. I was ignorant and had previously assumed that brazing and silver soldering where two terms for the same process.
So if silver soldering then best to use the stainless steel barn, blue tipped fluxed rods or blue tipped non fluxed rods with seperate suitable flux. How do I know which flux is suitable?
If brazing then use Tobin Bronze (AKA Comcoat T). Is it preferable with stainless steel Or bronze barb for this?
Silver solder only for stainless...
I would silver solder only the brass as well, but that’s just me
'93 D1 V8 auto
'93 D1 200Tdi 2-door, ARB's, MD transfer, sill tanks, winch, 2"lift.......
'95 D1 V8 auto......gone
'86 V8 RRC.....gone
Soldering, as a process, wets the metals, but does not key into the parent metals.
Brazing has keying at the metal surfaces, hence the filler and the parent metal alloy at this joint.
Real world, most people get the idea whichever term you use.
As for the fluxes, choose one as per filler material manufacturer's recommendations. Unlike filler materials, there is little in the way of specifications for fluxes (that I'm aware of), but you'll need to know what active ingredients they use (eg flouride), and the flux should remain active at the temperature at which the filler material melts.
FWIW, people often refer to coated fillers by their flux colour. Realistically, there is no convention here, and a white fluxed rod, a blue fluxed rod, and one with pink and blue polka-dots may all have the same metallurgy... But try telling an old boily/engineer that the comcoat rods with the pink flux are the same as the same spec rods with a white flux, and you'll be in for a bit of an argument.
-Mitch
'El Burro' 2012 Defender 90.
Chlorinated brake cleaner makes phosgene IIRC.
-Mitch
'El Burro' 2012 Defender 90.
It's really easy to stuff it up, you can oxidise the joint badly as the stainless dosen't dissipate heat well.
If using stainless use 'pickling paste' and at a minimum 45% silver brazing rod and flux.
The flux I've been using for the last couple of years actually turns from green to white when the temps roughly correct.
Using 15% and 45% silver solder is technically brazing, not soldering even though that's what we all call it.
Just remember that 45% silver doesn't fill voids near as well as 15% that is used on copper/copper joints, but it capillaries really well if you get your heat right and makes for a very strong joint if the parts have a good fit.
'93 D1 V8 auto
'93 D1 200Tdi 2-door, ARB's, MD transfer, sill tanks, winch, 2"lift.......
'95 D1 V8 auto......gone
'86 V8 RRC.....gone
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