No that is not the colour of standard diesel .
Tis a concern but not water infected if you left your sample sit which is does not look like .
Id say more like Bio but who knows .
i drained this from my filter on the weekend. It doesn't have the same pungent smell as diesel, which may mean little. It hasn't separated. i drained the filter twice so whatever it is, it's from the tank and not just in the filter. I did a Google search of colour of diesel and images of biodiesel had similar colouring and cloudiness (the exhaust smells normal). I haven't put fuel in the tank since i received the truck back from the so called mechanic. He had to remove the tank pick up for what he was doing. I have no idea if the fuel is the fuel that was in the tank when i gave it to him, or something else.
I've been driving the truck not knowing the fuel quality is in question. The question is, to get my truck to a mechanic to drop the tank to clean i have to drive it 30kms. Am i tempting fate to rely on the 2 micron filter to supply the injectors with clean fuel.
IMG_1581.jpg
MLD
Current: (Diggy) MY10 D130 ute, locked F&R, air suspension and rolling on 35's.
Current: (but in need of TLC) 200tdi 110 ute & a 300tdi 110 ute.
Current: (Steed) MY11 Audi RS5 phantom black (the daily driver)
Gone: (Dorothy) MY99 TD5 D110
No that is not the colour of standard diesel .
Tis a concern but not water infected if you left your sample sit which is does not look like .
Id say more like Bio but who knows .
It does look like biodiesel that has been subjected to cold temperature. It sometimes goes cloudy like that but will still burn fine. But normal pump diesel shouldn't go like that. A 2 micron filter should be more than sufficient for any fuel, if it runs fine just keep burning it.
Cheers......Brian
1985 110 V8 County
1998 110 Perentie GS Cargo 6X6 ARN 202516 (Brutus)
Even in a Puma engine? It runs a little rough on idle but settles under throttle.
I'm presently fault finding for a loss of power on hills at WOT. The turbo is sounding unhealthy which is being looked at when i get it to the local mechanic. I'll also investigate the other usual suspects like the vacuum control valve, hoses etc. It's boosting to 22psi (according to Bell Auto that is standard for the Puma engine) but it feels like there is a fuel limitation at full boost.
MLD
Current: (Diggy) MY10 D130 ute, locked F&R, air suspension and rolling on 35's.
Current: (but in need of TLC) 200tdi 110 ute & a 300tdi 110 ute.
Current: (Steed) MY11 Audi RS5 phantom black (the daily driver)
Gone: (Dorothy) MY99 TD5 D110
I would drain the tank and fill again with clean fuel, That "Fuel" just doesn't look right to me.
You only get one shot at life, Aim well
2004 D2 "S" V8 auto, with a few Mods gone
2007 79 Series Landcruiser V8 Ute, With a few Mods.
4.6m Quintrex boat
20' Jayco Expanda caravan gone
I would hope i'm wrong but I'd say its water in the diesel. Unfortunately I have a bit of experience in this matter.
Lime Milkshake.
Your sample looks at lot like mine did when I drained the tank, mine looked a bit more greenish. It took about 4 or 5 weeks for the water to settle out of my sample and there was only about a teaspoon in 1 liter of fuel.
Unfortunately the photos of the samples I posted seem to have been deleted. Attachment 124441.
I think I still have the photos at home and can repost them here if you like, but will have to wait until tonight.
I had a few days of thinking I had lost a bit of power, but because I was towing a boat in pretty bad weather, thought it might have been that.
If you do drain the tank, keep the fuel as proof of water contamination as your insurance may cover it.
Cheers Glen.
Edit.
MLD - sorry I really didn't answer your question. I'd drop the fuel and get new stuff. Also there is a fuel line top front of the motor that you can take off. when you turn on the iginition the lift pump will pump out about 1/2 a litre. You can use this to get fresh fuel into these lines. Don't really know how to flush the return lines though.
I'd also be calling the mechanic and asking what he put in the tank! If it is bio, perhaps not an issue per se, but if you're trying to sort out a power loss situation, I'd be stating with fresh, clean fuel as Step 1.
Draining the tank yourself is not that difficult. Get onto Mario and order a couple of extra fuel filters. New fuel and filter, give it a good run, then put another filter in, and go again. Rinse and repeat until fuel is clean. Way cheaper than pumps/injectors.
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You have the right to remain silent. Anything you say will be misquoted, then used against you.
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1999 Disco TD5 ("Bluey")
1996 Disco 300 TDi ("Slo-Mo")
1995 P38A 4.6 HSE ("The Limo")
1966 No 5 Trailer (ARN 173 075) soon to be camper
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Thanks All,
My regular mechanic said i should risk driving it the 30km with the dodgy fuel in it. As i drove a few hundred kms with that fuel if there is damage it is already done.
I bought a long ranger tank a few weeks ago so this Friday the old tank is coming out. As recommended i'll do a line clean and pray that the injectors and fuel pump are fine.
Dorian, the 2.4 puma does not have a lift pump, only the high pressure pump on the block. It might be easier to pressurise the lines with air to push the fuel out. I have a Parker 2 micron truck filter assembly fitted with a priming pump. Makes priming after a filter change a breeze.
DonH54 - my relationship with the former mechanic is about $10,000 sour.
MLD
Current: (Diggy) MY10 D130 ute, locked F&R, air suspension and rolling on 35's.
Current: (but in need of TLC) 200tdi 110 ute & a 300tdi 110 ute.
Current: (Steed) MY11 Audi RS5 phantom black (the daily driver)
Gone: (Dorothy) MY99 TD5 D110
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