Thread: How would you do this?

I would sound out the RTA on the subject - but note that my 1970 ute is described on the registration as a TT - which it turns out means tabletop. When I attempted to correct this I was advised by the RTA that in 1970 this was the only body type made by Landrover on 109s. It apparently was described as a TT when inspected by the RTA when I transferred it from Victoria.
I think that in theory vehicle bodies can only be built by licenced body builders, and any exceptions require an engineer's certificate, but this may not apply to vehicles built before the ADRs existed, which would apply to your Series 2.
There is no way that they are going to know that the tray is not one that was fitted before these rules existed (unless you tell them), so assuming that it fits the rules at least approximately, I doubt that any questions would be asked. It should be of sensible dimensions and construction, no sharp edges, have mudguards that look as if they will stay there, and have either the original lights or ones that are certified to meet ADRs.

yea, s2, you get a suicide dash, snap you in 1/2 seat belts, whip neck seating, 1/4 mile breaks,.. a smash your face steering wheel,
I dont think they are really going to mind whats on your tail, so long as you have lights,
I hate to think of what would be needed to be done to bring one up to todays ADR specs,

If you compare the S2 with the current Defender, which presumably does meet current ADRs, the main shortcomings would be emissions, lights (need to have headlights out where they get broken in scrub, and blinkers were not standard on the S2), seat belts (optional on the S2 but 3 point inertia reel belts which were optional on late 2a meet requirements), dual circuit brakes (need to go to S3 for them), antiburst door locks (optional on late 2a) and removal of sharp objects in the passenger space, specifically the windscreen wing nuts, wiper motors and the ridge along the top of the windscreen. The dash itself I doubt is a problem, and neither is the steering - the steering column only goes just through the bulkhead, same as the Defender, and so will not be pushed into the passenger space.

The major safety problem with the 2a is probably the single circuit brakes, requiring close attention to maintenance to spot problems before they lead to failure. The drum brakes also need continuing attention to ensure they keep working adequately. But overall, fitted with three point belts and driven sensibly the Series 2 cannot be described as unsafe given its relatively low power weight ratio and low gearing that discourage driving outside the capability of its brakes and handling. Unless faulty, the steering and handling on these is actually quite good, especially with good tyres, and the lack of sway bars frightens the driver well before the limit of adhesion is reached!

I think i might give it a go, what have i got to lose? If i make it so that it can be removed and an original tub bolted on i will do that if it fails. But as you said JD if i put adequate lights on the back and make it safe in terms of people getting caught on sharp edges i should be fine. Matt

What are you planning to do about the support of the seatbox, door pillars etc? Cut the front off your existing tub? I have the rear body section off a S3 cab/flatbed that should fit and I could be persuaded to part with.

Originally posted by JDNSW
What are you planning to do about the support of the seatbox, door pillars etc? Cut the front off your existing tub? I have the rear body section off a S3 cab/flatbed that should fit and I could be persuaded to part with.

Can you get me a pic of it? How much are we talking? and where in central NSW are you?

It will be a while before i would get to it. Matt

Email sent

Just read into the ADR's for lighting as that will be your main concern,

Need to be a minimum for edges, max height off ground, viewing angle
and also ADR approved lights etc. From memory it all seemed pretty straigh forward.

My plan for mounting the tray to the chassis is to find som RHS with the same internal width as the width of the chassis then and cut one side off it, drill the chassis out, weld in crush tubes and bolt it up. Thats for uprights, then there will be angled sections incorperated to support a cage. These will be plated to the sides of the chassis with crush tubes and bolted aswell.