Thread: coolent leak

I believe it would be the tell tale hole to let you know the water pump housing is shagged. I would be thinking it is time for a new water pump.

OK.... I'm guessing that as you've got a '95 Defender, you've got a 300TDi fitted. If so, it's probably the "P" shaped gasket that sits between the water pump housing & the engine block that's gone. If so, you'll probably be able to see it leaking down the front of the engine block.

LandRover had some problems with the original gasket & water pump bolts so it wouldn't surprise me to find it's that which has gone. The later part is a metal gasket (rather than cork/paper or whatever it was) and there are some longer replacement bolts.

It's a fairly simple job to do (although appears quite daunting initially) and should take 2-3 hrs. The process is:

Drain cooling system.
Remove serpentine belt.
Romove fan.
Remove the top intercooler hose, radiator hose and various other hoses!
Unbolt & move to one side the alternator & power steering pump.
Unbolt & remove the tensioner.
Unbolt & remove the waterpump & housing from front of engine.

Clean up faces & re-assemble using the new parts.

There's probably one or two things I've missed but that's the basic idea.

HTH

Mark.

Originally posted by weeds
hey team

i have notice a small coolant leak from the back of the water pump. i cannot see exactly where it is coming from but i'm guessing it from where the back half of the water is bolted to the motor.

is it just a gasket i have to replace or do i just use some sealant

what bits and pieces do i need to do the job

i had a close look at he drive belts and will replace them at the same time

For the princely sum of ~$80 it is worth replacing the pump as well.

The standard P gasket usually does the job but when I did mine we used red RTV gasket goo as well. So far so good. Check the condition of the bolts as well.

See these excellent threads also:

http://www.aulro.com/modules.php?name=Foru...ewtopic&t=10316

http://www.aulro.com/modules.php?name=Foru...iewtopic&t=7456

I would if you have it off anyway. At least then you will know it is right for a long while.

What ever happened to: "If it ain't broke, don't fix it"?

:?

Mark

Originally posted by camel_landy
What ever happened to: "If it ain't broke, don't fix it"?

:?

Mark

There is some truth in that but how do you know when the bearing will go

I have had the pump replaced twice in ~150,000 km. Bearings being the problem in the first instance second just for insurance. The second time the pump seemed OK...spinning well.

So preventative maintenance on an 11 year old vehicle is the name of the game.8)

It was a PS pump failure that precipitated this for me...so all bearings checked and tensioner bearing replaced...new belts..the new serpentine was the textured job...not the smooth...water pump leak dealt with.

Engine bay no longer squeals like a banshee.

And I know that all the variables have been dealt with. We should deal with systems not components...the space shuttle is a catastrophic example of a component approach

If I spend hours taking off the front of the donkey engine ....might as well deal with everything attached to it.

OK... Just to play devils advocate for a moment...

I've actually knackered more alternator bearings than I've done water pumps and IMO the alternators are more venerable than water pumps. While you've got the alernator off, why not change that? Why not change the tensioner pulley too? What about the viscous fan unit? Where do you draw the line...

:?

(Sorry to hijack the thread)

Mark.

thanks guys

good idea to replace the water pump, 220K on the clock will do the water pump and p gasket

do i have time to do it myself or get the perts to do it??????

only a month to easter