sounds like fun
so when you crank the engine does the full pump start and presurise the lines?
The car has a later 90s 3.9 with the old 4CU efi system. Long story short, after testing and checking everything such , as spark, fuel, resistor pack, fuel over run system, fuel pump, earths etc and even resoldering dry joints in the ecu and replacing the power transistors, the engine won’t even kick. There is fuel in the fuel rail and it squirts out if you loosen the clamp on the cold start injector hose. Previously it did at least kick, but not now. There is power at the relay next to the ecu. Our latest theory is that the resistor pack isn’t getting power. I haven’t tested the injectors yet for power but presumably the cold start injector runs off the same power source as the main ones. If that was working the engine should run off that for a short time. My question is where does the resistor pack get its power from and if there is a breakdown in that line how can you bypass it? I haven’t checked for power on the plug yet but will do so. It is pretty much the only thing left that might be causing the problem. The resistor pack itself has been tested and is perfect. Does that power feed go to a relay somewhere and if so, where is it? My brother has looked at the wiring diagram and worked out that the two thick orange and brown wires on the resistor pack connector are the power wires for each bank.
sounds like fun
so when you crank the engine does the full pump start and presurise the lines?
2007 Discovery 3 SE7 TDV6 2.7
2012 SZ Territory TX 2.7 TDCi
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100% sure its a fuel issue? Try a squirt of aerostart or similar and see if it at least kicks on that.
Had corrosion in resistor pack causing start problems in my old rangie, ditto the plug on the ECU.
'93 D1 V8 auto
'93 D1 200Tdi 2-door, ARB's, MD transfer, sill tanks, winch, 2"lift.......
'95 D1 V8 auto......gone
'86 V8 RRC.....gone
The fuel pump is switched on by a contact in the air flow meter, as well as off the starter motor solenoid. Push the flap inwards with your finger and the pump should run with the ignition on.
If the pump is running, check that the white/black stripe wire and its associated inline resistor is connected to ignition coil negative. That is the only rotation signal input to the ECU.
Probe an injector plug with a LED test light and see if the injector pulses.
If you have spark at the coil but not at a plug you may have a burnt out rotor button.
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