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Thread: Series 2A Brake upgrade and Dual Circuits

  1. #1
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    Series 2A Brake upgrade and Dual Circuits

    Hi All,
    I fear I am asking something that will have been explained many times before but I cannot find what I need. I am rebuilding a Suffix D, 2A 109 Six cylinder Station Wagon. The original remote brake booster that is located beside the air cleaner has been looked over by a professional and I have been told it is dead and cannot be overhauled. I have therefore sourced a Series 3 six cylinder pedal box with booster, and a series 3 wing top as I believe that you need the cut away to make the booster fit. I understand that I need to do away with the original brake light switch as the Series 3 booster has the switch within it; and so to my question(s). If I want to change the brakes to a dual system how are the brake pipes connected? I was going to install a Defender brake master cylinder to the Series three booster giving me the front and rear brake outlets (Not 100% sure if this is correct but read somewhere that it was recommended). I assume the same single line runs to the rear of the vehicle and into the three way connector on top of the axle so no real change? How do I do the fronts. Would a three way connector located in place of the old 4 way with switch be the best thing to do. Could then take a feed to each front wheel?

    Lastly, is there anything else I need for this conversion. The vehicle has 11" drums front and rear, including the 3" shoes on the front so I am hoping she will pull up quickly for city driving.

    Thanks in advance.

  2. #2
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    1. You also need the panel that goes from the top of the mudguard to the footwell.

    2. There is no need to change the brake light setup - the pedal switch will still work and be legal

    3. Not sure about the Defender M/C, although I think it will work.

    4. You also need to use a brake shuttle valve. This is what allows pressure to be applied to both systems even if the shoe adjustment is slightly different. Without it, you will fully apply either front or back brakes, depending which is adjusted up more closely, without any braking on the other circuit. It also contains a switch that is operated if the shuttle valve spool moves fully in either direction, indicating failure of a circuit. This switch needs to be wired to a warning light for the system to be legal.

    Hope this helps.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  3. #3
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    Did the brakes work OK with the remote booster that was fitted ? This company can overhaul and will make parts to fix boosters http://www.hydroboost.com.au/
    They also supply reconditioned boosters.

    My Series III shorty was fitted with a LWB braking system. No shuttle valve fitted so no warning light but if one circuit failed I think you'd notice the reduction in braking.

    DSCN2326 by Colin Radley, on Flickr

    DSCN2466 by Colin Radley, on Flickr


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650

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