Thread: Late series 3 wheel studs

There is a better way , buy the correct hubs .

Though Im sure it has been done & probably without issue, its a bodge, I would NOT recommend fitting series 3 / Defender studs on a Series 1/2 Hub the groove in the back of the hub is not compatible with the press fit spline of the later stud that needs a full raised plinth for the spline & stud head to bear against.

On the later hubs there's a counterbore in the rear so that the stud ends up almost flush when pressed in. The flange is also slightly thicker (just had a look at a couple in the shed).

The hole will have to be drilled to allow the splines a good interference fit. Not enough interference and it will turn, too much and you wont press it in so you'd have to work out the hole size. How are you going to get the old studs out ? They are screwed in and the back is then flared out into the groove so that they don't come out.

Out of interest, why do you want bigger nuts ?


Colin

A couple of points to bear in mind.

1. If fitting later hubs, the wheel bearings changed in late S3 - don't get these unless you change the stub axles as well.

2. If you just want to have the same spanner, one of the wheel nut options for late 2a is 9/16" BSF but the hex is 27mm

3. The change in stud size actually happened on late S2a. All S3 and 90/110/Defender are the same, although length does vary for alloys I think.

Originally Posted by gromit

On the later hubs there's a counterbore in the rear so that the stud ends up almost flush when pressed in. The flange is also slightly thicker (just had a look at a couple in the shed).

The hole will have to be drilled to allow the splines a good interference fit. Not enough interference and it will turn, too much and you wont press it in so you'd have to work out the hole size. How are you going to get the old studs out ? They are screwed in and the back is then flared out into the groove so that they don't come out.

Out of interest, why do you want bigger nuts ?


Colin

The old nuts came out quite easily. I just turned with a self-tightening wrench

The bigger studs and nuts are to match the front axle; I’m using a mix of parts

Thanks

Originally Posted by JDNSW

A couple of points to bear in mind.

1. If fitting later hubs, the wheel bearings changed in late S3 - don't get these unless you change the stub axles as well.

2. If you just want to have the same spanner, one of the wheel nut options for late 2a is 9/16" BSF but the hex is 27mm

3. The change in stud size actually happened on late S2a. All S3 and 90/110/Defender are the same, although length does vary for alloys I think.

I’ve already fallen into bearing trap!!

That’s one of the reasons why I wanted to drill out the current hubs rather than get a new set.

The law of unintended consequences has bitten too many times already.

A 16mm endmill would be best , they also press into a 5/8" hole no problems being only .003" diff



AM

Originally Posted by Ancient Mariner

A 16mm endmill would be best , they also press into a 5/8" hole no problems being only .003" diff

Problem with an end mill is how do you get the PCD & spacing correct ? It would be easy to have the spacing wrong as the endmill won't centre in the hole.


Colin

Ideally, make up a template guide with a large hole for the centre of the hub, a hole to fit the end mill, and another one to fit the adjoining stud hole, with two pins, one to fit the original threaded hole and one to fit the new hole. Probably need to make it out of at least 12mm plate, but it could be laid out by hand and made in a drill press, although the large hole would be an issue - better on a lathe.