Thread: Capstan Winch Rope

I think it has to be a natural fibre, not synthetic.

I seem to remember something about synthetic not gripping the drum too well.

Dont know about lengths. Sorry.

Hi Bisho,

Definitely a natural fibre (hemp) rope. Synthetic will eventually grip with enough turns on the capstan but can melt when worked hard and also has too much stretch. I wouldn’t go much smaller than a 1 inch (23mm) diameter and most winch ropes are about 30m long, but the length is up to you your judgment.

Cheers, Kenjo

The capstan winch was designed for hemp or other natural fibres. All synthetic ropes have two separate problems when used with a capstan winch -
1. They are a lot slipperier than natural fibres, so you have to pull a lot harder on the end - and if you take advantage of the stronger rope having allowed a smaller diameter, and take an extra turn, it is much easier to end up with a riding turn.

2. If slipping occurs under load, and it is likely to, all synthetic ropes will rapidly melt, both reducing the strength and increasing the amount of slip.

If you do use synthetic rope despite the advice please avoid the stretchy ones such as nylon, polypropylene and silver (polyethylene staple) - likely to cause a lot of damage when they break.

The book recommends 3 3/4" circumference (31.5mm diameter) Manila rope. Length should be as long as you can conveniently manage, probably not more than 15m. Should have one end whipped and the other should have an eye splice, preferably with a hard thimble for a shackle. For self recovery a snatch block is often useful.

Do not run with the engine over a fast idle - the book says 600rpm - and always engage or disengage the drive with the engine stopped and no load on the winch.

It is worthwhile carrying spare shear pins and an allen key to get the bollard off - it is probably easier to do this than to try and line up the holes filled with sheared off pin. Also need a hammer and helps to have a pin punch.

Add to the above - I used 1/2" 6x19 wire rope successfully for years, but it does need heavy leather gloves to avoid spikes, and is nasty stuff to handle. In retrospect I don't really recommend it. Definitely do NOT use stainless steel - it work hardens.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>It is worthwhile carrying spare shear pins and an allen key to get the bollard off - it is probably easier to do this than to try and line up the holes filled with sheared off pin. Also need a hammer and helps to have a pin punch[/b][/quote]

..................& if it is an Aeroparts Winch, remove the existing bollard shear pin (1/4"?) & replace it with a HT long shank bolt & use just the plain shank & discard the threaded bit. (apx. 3/8" diam iircc) Drill out to suit. This is not designed to shear but remain in one piece. Then, replace the steel shear pin in the drive shaft universal joint & replace with the correct brass one.

The working load then increases to 3,000 lbs pull before shearing. That's what the Installation Sheet says but David Bowyer states 4,000 lbs. Dunno on that one.

If the existing bollard pin lets go you can have a runaway, whereas if the driveshaft pin shears, the bollard will stop.

This was an Aeroparts/Land Rover Safety Modification from Nov. 1971

As for the correct rope to use, the well repected David Bowyer in the UK, recomends :

"20mm 16 plait Matt Polyester braided over a loose laid 3 strand Low Stretch Terylene core". Phew! :roll: 30 m seems to be his recom. length.

Without common sense, due care & some education by someone who knows what they are about,, Capstans can be a dangerous piece of kit.

I do not know what other makes of Capstan are capable of, just the Aeroparts.

Originally posted by 4bee
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>It is worthwhile carrying spare shear pins and an allen key to get the bollard off - it is probably easier to do this than to try and line up the holes filled with sheared off pin. Also need a hammer and helps to have a pin punch

..................& if it is an Aeroparts Winch, remove the existing bollard shear pin & replace it with a HT long shank bolt & use just the plain shank & discard the threaded bit. (apx. 3/8" diam iircc) This is not designed to shear but remain in one piece. Then, replace the steel shear pin in the drive shaft universal joint & replace with the correct brass one.

The working load then increases to 3,000 lbs pull before shearing.

If the existing bollard pin lets go you can have a runaway, whereas if the driveshaft pin shears, the bollard will stop.

Without common sense & due care, Capstans can be a dangerous piece of kit.

This was an Aeroparts/Land Rover Safety Modification from Nov. 1971[/b][/quote]

Worthwhile piece of information - my last capstan winch was sold with its vehicle when I moved to PNG in 1969....

Without common sense and due care, ANY winch can be a dangerous piece of kit. Capstan winches perhaps more so because they are less familiar.

One word of advice Bisho ( based on experience) just get a "little bit bogged" first time you try out the winch.
The capstan winch was probably devised to assist in clifftop rescues, not self recovery.
I would also buy a short length of rope -say 10m first and get a winch extension strap. These are always handy for other jobs anyway.
One setback is that inch manilla rope takes up a lot of space and soon weighs a lot when wet.
My lasting memory of using a capstan is that it is BLOODY hard work as you have to maintain a lot of pressure on the rope, otherwise it just slips.
Good Luck & have fun...

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>The capstan winch was probably devised to assist in clifftop rescues, not self recovery.[/b][/quote]

I thought it was devised to pull up the anchor on boats

I picked up a capstain winch for my SIII but sold the old girl before fitting it. I'm thinking of fitting it to my County, but use a hydraulic motor ( PS pump driven ) instead of a prop shaft.

Bruce.