Results 1 to 8 of 8

Thread: Respraying

  1. #1
    alexcd Guest

    Respraying

    Im thinking of respraying my Rangie. Its red and very fadded, i give it a cut and polish every 6 months but it really needs new paint. I want to keep the colour the same so i dont have to worry about inside of doors etc.
    What perperation do i have to do?
    Is it just a case of a good wash and then maskit up and srpay of should i rub it back first?
    I've never done this before, but am keen to try and would appreciate any sugestions.

    Thanks

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Adelaide Hills - SA
    Posts
    12,486
    Total Downloaded
    0
    There was a good thread on this 3 or 4 months ago. Try doing a search on Painting or Respraying. It had links to another site with heaps of re-spraying information.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Sydney's gritty inner west (2204) and verdant Mount Wilson
    Posts
    7,446
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Mahn England

    DEFENDER 110 D300 SE '23 (the S M E G)

    Ex DEFENDER 110 wagon '08 (the Kelvinator)
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members-rides/105691-one_iotas-110-inch-kelvinator.html

    Ex 300Tdi Disco:



  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    St Helena,Melbourne
    Posts
    16,770
    Total Downloaded
    1.13 MB
    No too hard when keeping the same colour, wash, rub back, mask off and spray with acrylic on a still mild day or heated garage. You could also use enamel with a little hardner for a good finish straight off the gun.

  5. #5
    p38arover's Avatar
    p38arover is offline Major part of the heart and soul of AULRO.com
    Administrator
    I'm here to help you!
    Gold Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Western Sydney
    Posts
    30,707
    Total Downloaded
    1.63 MB
    Originally posted by one_iota
    A valuable contribution from Vlad
    8O 8O 8O 8O 8O



    Ron
    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



    RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Sydney's gritty inner west (2204) and verdant Mount Wilson
    Posts
    7,446
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Originally posted by p38arover+--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(p38arover)</div><div class='quotemain'><!--QuoteBegin-one_iota
    A valuable contribution from Vlad
    8O 8O 8O 8O 8O



    Ron[/b][/quote]

    Yes all the lynx are missing 8O ....they have run for cover and gone to ground :wink:

    But they were quality at the time :wink:

    A bit of ferriting will find them :wink:
    Mahn England

    DEFENDER 110 D300 SE '23 (the S M E G)

    Ex DEFENDER 110 wagon '08 (the Kelvinator)
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members-rides/105691-one_iotas-110-inch-kelvinator.html

    Ex 300Tdi Disco:



  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    18,616
    Total Downloaded
    0
    The main problem painting over old and not so old paint is that the solvents work their way into the old paint over a period of time which can cause the paint to crazy a year or two after painting - at least it does with acrylic.

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Warburton, Victoria
    Posts
    4,693
    Total Downloaded
    0
    OK Advice from a bloke who worked 5 years on and off in a panel shop.

    Wash like its going into Quarentine..

    Get some Prepsol and wipe it over, this removes tar and bugs and alike.
    Rub back with 400 grit DRY.... gone are the days of wet rub.
    Rub it until the shine has gone on all areas, if you dont do this the paint will flake back and you will have a 4wd that looks like it came from Rent a Wreck.
    Mask it up. pay attention and detail to rubbers and door jams, spend that extra time... it makes it worth while in the end.
    Prepsol it again.
    wipe clean with lint free cloth.

    Paint preperation
    Get a good compressor and Good Spray gun, ask the Paint shop what is the best for primer and colour (top coat)
    Get a garage or area with no wind and its warm, 18-24deg is perfect
    Get some "Etch Primer" Acrylic is best in my books, others may not agree.
    spray a very light coat over the whole car, then do it again when it has tacked off but make the 2nd one like a normal coat. Not thick. just even.
    Then get some normal primer and give it about 5-7 coats, give it a few more in damage area or areas you fixed up.
    Leave it for about 2 days then start rubbing with 240 grit.
    Spray a "Guide" Coat off flat black (GMH black) this will allow you to pick up areas you have not rubbed as the black is still there.
    ask a panel shop how to rub a panel, 90% will show you and give you all the help you need if you buy the paint off them. find a small panel shop, not a big RACV... small ones with 2 or more guys where the boss has been around since Jesus played full back for Jerusalem. he will give you sound advice. Dont pick a place full of XW falcons or HJ holdens, they are Bias and will laugh at you..... Trust me i know....
    Find a bloke that loves Euro cars or better still English cars.... Jags, Austins, BMC... ect..... Rust and paint hell heaven.

    OK after you rub it back and get all the "etch coat" off then your ready for top coat.

    Make sure everything is clean around you. Sweep, Vaccum and blow the area off, Blow the car off. NO DUST.........
    DONT wet the ground. This will cause humidity bubbles long term....

    1st coat should be light, then 2nd slightly heavier, 3rd can be full coats and use all the paint you have.... about 6 litres for a 4wd... leave about 500ml for touch ups.
    Then when it has tacked off, Not dried.. then do the same with about 4-6 coats of Clear. Make the last coat a higher content of thinners. this will give you a flat gloss finish off the gun.

    Thats about the jist of it, but if i was you. Try the whole process on a old door or your beer fridge.
    get runs and stuff it up so you dont do it on the Rangie....
    you will soon work out how much you can load it up before it runs...

    Best part of Acrylic..... you can rub it back when its dry and fix the runs and bugs that landed on it, then touch it up with a simple blend out.

    Last advice.
    Find a panel shop who will allow you to use there equipment and get them to show you how to do it, it will cost you, but you will make new mates and learn an art that is hard to come by.
    Or find a Tafe and do a Course.

    Clarkie

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!