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Thread: Front shock length for Rangie

  1. #11
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    Thanks David, if you could get a pic of that it would be great.

    So how far did the spacer raise your shock mounts Mick? It was a bit hard to tell from the pic, I think it time you hosed the old girl down.

    Dave, wher are you getting your Ridepro's and have you got any prices?

  2. #12
    HSVRangie Guest


    this is how I extended my towers.

    used 75mm exhaust tube.

    could not be bothered ading the rib.

    Michael.

  3. #13
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    Here are the pics



    David

  4. #14
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    Thanks everyone for your pics, that really helps. I think Modman's is the simplist design and I like simple.
    Would I be right in thinking there should not be much lateral force on the tower, just the up/down movement of the shock. Modman's is really just like body blocks for the tower.

    Another question (and it would help if someone answered this ASAP ans I want to go out and do it after lunch), what thickness steel is recommended for the shock mount bracket at the rear?

    Mick has already recomended macking the bracket in a square "S" shape so it comes up the inside of the chasis, over the top then up above the chasis.

    Are there any other recommendations?

  5. #15
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    Ok, so no-one is out there!

    But I will still ask more questions.

    Modman (or anyone else) what shocks are you running up front and what are the lengths?

    I started chasing up shocks today with the intention of getting 80Series Shocks for the front like everyone suggests. The measurements for these shocks are 356mm close & 356mm open. On these lengths I would not even have to modify the front tower for them to fit.

    Next question.

    Is there anything wrong with just welding some 5mm plate onto the outside of the chasis where the rear shock mount currently sits and then bolting the shock mount up higher on this plate?
    I would also weld in some bracing from the back of this plate back onto the chasis. By doing it this way I don't have to bend the steel plate.

  6. #16
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    I’ll try and answer some of yr questions –

    Welding to the chassis is illegal, but will save u heaps of time as long as it done properly (bracing etc) but it might start to crack over time…. 5 or 6mm should be heaps

    My front shocks are 100mm longer then std bilsteins (cant find specs)

    Hth
    Mick

  7. #17
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    Thanks Mick.

    I suppose I could use the existing holes in the chasis where the shock mount is now to just bolt the plate on. Is that what the LRA kit uses?

    What do you think about just a straight piece of flat on the outside of the chasis? I can't see how this would be any weaker than the "S" bend you were talking about but a lot easier to do.

  8. #18
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    yeah use the existing holes...

    the lra kit is pretty fancy i will take some pics tomorrow night for you as i have to take the rear tyre off

    flat plate might work but should be braced some how... can u wait till tomorrow?

  9. #19
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    No problems, thanks.

    Yes if I used just a flat plate then I would weld a couple of braces from the top corners of the plate to the top of the chasis.

    It's a pity you can't buy the bracket LRA has seperately.

  10. #20
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    can't remember shock lengths but have it written down in a notepad somewhere with lots of different specs.
    i remember mine are ridepro and needed some spacing.
    i know ome n76(?) are long pin to pin shocks.
    before you install them a cool trick shown to me was to fully extend the shock and run a texta around the body where the stone cover covers the body.
    do another mark fully compressed
    then another half travel (measure halway between the previous 2 marks)
    this allows lots of ACCURATE measurement for droop,travel,bumpstop clearance and shock spacer measurement :wink:
    david


    also many comp rovers extended the rear mount like you are doing by bolting a plate to the chassis to lift the rear shock mount.
    but you still have crap bush allignment in the eye of the shock.
    i have seen a neet way to brace the mount by welding a horizontal plate behind the vertical plate to take the stress of the bolts when the suspension is worked.
    this tab just sits on top of the chassis rail but takes most of the force/stress instead of the bolts.
    i believe the chassis rail cracks because the extended shock mount places a lot more force with the greater leverage on the rail.

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