Reply With QuotePretty much need to remove the brake line.
I slotted the bracket so the the calliper and line can be lifted out of the way.
Support the swivel housing with a jack from underneath or it will drop and the fluid will escape.
ChatterBox
SupporterI've got a jiggle in my steering, so attempting to adjust swivel pin preload. I've started on the left one and got stuck with the rearmost swivel pin retaining bolt as it seems to be buried in the brake hose bracket, and my ring spanner keeps jumping off. The bolts are stuck with red locktite stuff all the way along the thread. Has anyone got a solution for cracking that bolt without rounding it off?
Don.
Master
Pretty much need to remove the brake line.
I slotted the bracket so the the calliper and line can be lifted out of the way.
Support the swivel housing with a jack from underneath or it will drop and the fluid will escape.
'95 Defender 130 Single Cab
HS2.8 TGV Powered
------------
98% of all Land Rovers built are still on the road.
The other 2% made it home.
Cost difference between Britpart and Genuine seals: £2.04. Knowing that your brakes won't fail at any moment: Priceless.
RoverLord
heat up the bolt first,
red loctite lets go at around 250 deg C
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
ChatterBox
SupporterThanks Dave, I've only got a Mapp gas torch here, will that suffice?Originally Posted by Blknight.aus
Don.
Fossicker
SupporterGrind the chamfer out of the ring of your spanner so it gets more bight on the head
Thought there’d be photo on the net about this but could only find thisTweed Heads firies use angle grinder to free man’s penis from ring spanner
ChatterBox
Supportermrb505, I thought the same, and bought another socket to sacrifice by cutting the internal chamfer off it. I suppose I should have originally asked if the job could be done without opening and removing the brake line. I now think not, but I only had limited time to do this, and I got to the point of having to put it back together, but with new front pads in.
I'll have another crack at it another day, now I'm a bit better informed. I think I have to replace my front brake pistons as well. There was a bit of rust on them. Are stainless pistons a good Idea?
RoverLord
Yep, I use one of those $15 from super cheap blow torches that run on the camp gas stove disposable butane bottles.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
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