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Thread: High Range ratio - Puma

  1. #1
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    High Range ratio - Puma

    Options on choice for high range gearsets (1.003 or 1.1). The set up first, the question second. Please stay on point of the Q. And yes Ashcroft sell both gear sets.


    MY10 130 (2.4ltr) with BAS (150bhp) tune
    Gearbox just rebuilt with refreshed anything that needed attention
    TFC - stock at the moment with a new high range to be fitted.
    final ratio 4.11
    tyres: 35” MT’s
    90 kph = 2000 rpm (+/- )
    100 kph = 2200 rpm (+/-)
    110 kph = 2500 rpm (+/-)
    weight: 2800 kg normal, up to 3500 kg on touring trips


    On the highway she is happiest at 90 kph, tolerates 100 kph and complains at 110 kph (fuel burn increases 15% for the 100 to 110 jump). Ashcroft calculator says if i fit 1.1 high range it will drop the 100kph to 2000 rpm, and the 1.003 gearset to 1825 rpm


    Q - Is a 1.003 gearset asking too much of the Puma engine and 6th gear at highway speeds.
    MLD

    Current: (Diggy) MY10 D130 ute, locked F&R, air suspension and rolling on 35's.
    Current: (but in need of TLC) 200tdi 110 ute & a 300tdi 110 ute.
    Current: (Steed) MY11 Audi RS5 phantom black (the daily driver)
    Gone: (Dorothy) MY99 TD5 D110

  2. #2
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    My guess is its going to get pretty hot pushing a laden 130 with those revs. Keep in mind you're slowing down the fan, coolant pump and oil pump.
    I've got the same tune on my 2.2 130, weighing about 2400kg and feels like it could use a few more revs at 100km/h, like I need to split 6th gear.

  3. #3
    DiscoMick Guest
    Mine is happy at 100kmh in sixth at about 2000 revs. It has a Steinbauer chip.

  4. #4
    DiscoMick Guest
    Oh, my tyres are standard 235/85/16.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by MLD View Post


    Q - Is a 1.003 gearset asking too much of the Puma engine and 6th gear at highway speeds.
    yes

  6. #6
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    thanks all. i reached out to Dave Ashcroft. I went with the 1.1 gearset. It will return my kph to rpm relationship back to the factory gearing and tyre set up. Instead of sitting on 90kph on the hwy i should be able to sit on 100 kph while the old girl is in her happy place at 2000 rpm. Worst comes to worst i refit the 1.221 gear set. cheers
    MLD

    Current: (Diggy) MY10 D130 ute, locked F&R, air suspension and rolling on 35's.
    Current: (but in need of TLC) 200tdi 110 ute & a 300tdi 110 ute.
    Current: (Steed) MY11 Audi RS5 phantom black (the daily driver)
    Gone: (Dorothy) MY99 TD5 D110

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by MLD View Post
    thanks all. i reached out to Dave Ashcroft. I went with the 1.1 gearset. It will return my kph to rpm relationship back to the factory gearing and tyre set up. Instead of sitting on 90kph on the hwy i should be able to sit on 100 kph while the old girl is in her happy place at 2000 rpm. Worst comes to worst i refit the 1.221 gear set. cheers
    ...or standard size tyres

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zeros View Post
    ...or standard size tyres
    fitting standard tyres, by itself, isn't going to fix the problem of high rpm on the highway. I am 8% lower gearing than factory with the 4.11's even allowing for the 35's. It i was to put 235/85's on it, the gearing would be about 18% under geared compared to the factory set up, increasing the 100 kph rpm to 2400 from 2000 (for stock) or from 2200 with my current set up. It is cheaper to rebuild the transfer than to rebuild the 2 diffs with 3.54's (incl the cost of buying new C&P especially for a sals). Sometimes when you venture too far from stock it is cheaper to take an alternate route than to backtrack. I still want my cake and eat it (play truck on weekends and touring truck when i go outback).
    MLD

    Current: (Diggy) MY10 D130 ute, locked F&R, air suspension and rolling on 35's.
    Current: (but in need of TLC) 200tdi 110 ute & a 300tdi 110 ute.
    Current: (Steed) MY11 Audi RS5 phantom black (the daily driver)
    Gone: (Dorothy) MY99 TD5 D110

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by MLD View Post
    fitting standard tyres, by itself, isn't going to fix the problem of high rpm on the highway. I am 8% lower gearing than factory with the 4.11's even allowing for the 35's. It i was to put 235/85's on it, the gearing would be about 18% under geared compared to the factory set up, increasing the 100 kph rpm to 2400 from 2000 (for stock) or from 2200 with my current set up. It is cheaper to rebuild the transfer than to rebuild the 2 diffs with 3.54's (incl the cost of buying new C&P especially for a sals). Sometimes when you venture too far from stock it is cheaper to take an alternate route than to backtrack. I still want my cake and eat it (play truck on weekends and touring truck when i go outback).
    Gotcha. So it goes the other way... only got yourself to blame then! But it sounds like you've got a good solution. ...How are your uni-joints holding up?

  10. #10
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    Any reasonable ways to squeeze more power out of the engine (I haven't played with a Puma)? Maybe a freer flowing exhaust, intercooler and seeing if you can upgrade to the BAS 165HP Power Tune (< Remap Defender(R) Puma 2.4 TDCi 165BHP Power Tune – BAS Remaps, Powering the Landrover tuning world! > the 150HP that you have is their 'City Tune' < Remap Defender(R) Puma 2.4 TDCi 150BHP City Tune – BAS Remaps, Powering the Landrover tuning world! >)? Better still might be adding the TurboTechnics VGT Hybrid turbo on too...

    I ask this as once you put bigger tyres on (e.g. 35"'s that you have advised) the engine is working harder to turn them, sure the gearing helps and makes a big difference, but even if regard back to standard overall gearing ratios the engine is still likely working harder, so ensuring that you've got the power to do so helps too - it's only a little 2.4L motor at the end of the day but with the turbo, intercooler, exhaust and tune to suit you might find the 1.003 ratios is doable...

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