Thread: about to galvanise my 110 firewall - anyone else done it?

Ohh? What exactly is the process mate ... any info on who does it etc?

Originally posted by defenderbilby
G'day Mark,


You also mention that they will be putting in new footwells. Have you been able to source these as only ones I can find are from Series firewalls and the footwell are different.
Let us know what you have done.

David

I am just cutting out the old footwells and replacing them with a similar section which will have some indentations pressed in for added strength.

The original 110 footwell design is very poor - the ribbed sections are sealed by the flat floor panel and very rust prone.

The series footwells while different will fit - depends if you want it to be exactly original - I dont mind, as long as it looks OK.

Originally posted by LRHybrid100
I was told by the bloke in Brookvale, NSW not to gal the firewall - he is also a LR nut.

He recommended blasting and then "organic" galvinised spray.

HTH

LRH

The guy who does my sandblasting is also able to spray it in an industrial epoxy primer. I'm sure that with any decent primer after blasting and then plenty of fishoil etc in the internal cavities it would last a long time. Its just that galvanising is the ultimate in protection and does all the internal bits as well. The acid dip also treats all the internal rust which is always there. I will do some research into this organic galvanising coating - the sandblaster doesnt use it but if I can spray it myself within a few hours of blasting it should be OK

One of the tricks of galvanising is to ensure that there are no air pockets when the work piece is dipped. This means that the angle of immersion and the provision of vent holes is important both for effective coverage and also safety for the operator.

Given the complexity of the fire wall a galvaniser should be consulted prior to dipping.

There is a case of an Architect being sued because the component he designed contained an airpocket and exploded during dipping because a vent hole was not included in the design. The operator was blinded 8O

Originally posted by Tikirocker+--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Tikirocker)</div><div class='quotemain'><!--QuoteBegin-LRHybrid100
I was told by the bloke in Brookvale, NSW not to gal the firewall - he is also a LR nut.

He recommended blasting and then "organic" galvinised spray.

HTH

LRH

I assume by organic you can also just paint it with Cold Gal ... that's another option I am considering to avoid warping. You then paint over the cold gal.[/b][/quote]

This stuff looks like the go.....
[url=http://www.zinga.com.au/pages/front.htm[url="http://%5dhttp://www.zinga.com.au/pages/front.htm%5burl%5d"]]http://www.zinga.com.au/pages/front.htm

I have emailed for a quote - I'm not expecting it to be cheap...

Looks good mate, I'll be VERY keen to see what the word is ... I need to do my repacement bulkhead ... that link wasn't working so I'll repost it here ---> http://www.zinga.com.au/pages/front.html

Originally posted by Tikirocker
Looks good mate, I'll be VERY keen to see what the word is ... I need to do my repacement bulkhead ... that link wasn't working so I'll repost it here ---> http://www.zinga.com.au/pages/front.html

I think the important bit of the non-galvanising zinc paints is high zinc content.

Cheers
Simon

This product also purpots to be a lot harder than cold gal which is very soft -even with a hard top coat it chips easily.

The price for a 2kg tin is about $80 inc GST. Guessing this is about equal to 1 litre or so when thinned- should be enough for a couple of coats on a firewall just.