101 question - Engine Oil for Defender

**disconut** · 21st April 2006, 04:39 PM

Originally posted by AlanH

now use Castrol R 5W - 30 fully synthetic and it seems to do the job OK.
Alan.

Same as above from new. Change every 20k plus new centrifugal and main filters. (52k on the clock with no problems).

Trev.

**Captain_Rightfoot** · 21st April 2006, 04:59 PM

I use shell ultra synthetic for what it's worth, and intend to change every 6 months. Our car is unlikely to do the 20k per year, so will be serviced by 12 months rather than distance. I expect it will only do 6-7k next year due to new baby on the way

Anyway, has anyone ever heard of a td5 wearing out? (ie cams, bearings, or piston/rings)

**VladTepes** · 21st April 2006, 05:54 PM

MR Automotive use something called Valvoline Synth-X (for Tdi engines). Anyway they sell it in 'cleanskins' (ie taken from a large drum) for mugs like me to fill up the engine as required.

I have NEVER seen this bloody oil on shelves anywhere, which ****es me off.

I'd prefer to use a Penrite oil (what's the right one ? Somebody told me a while back and I forgot ?) as its a high quality AUSSIE product.

Also please enlighten me as to whether it is OK to mix engine oils ? eg if I have that stuff and decide to put different stuff in to top up (say there's none of the other stuff available) is that OK ?

Cheers and thanks

**Captain_Rightfoot** · 21st April 2006, 06:00 PM

Originally posted by VladTepes
MR Automotive use something called Valvoline Synth-X (for Tdi engines). Anyway they sell it in 'cleanskins' (ie taken from a large drum) for mugs like me to fill up the engine as required.

I have NEVER seen this bloody oil on shelves anywhere, which ****es me off.

I'd prefer to use a Penrite oil (what's the right one ? Somebody told me a while back and I forgot ?) as its a high quality AUSSIE product.

Also please enlighten me as to whether it is OK to mix engine oils ? eg if I have that stuff and decide to put different stuff in to top up (say there's none of the other stuff available) is that OK ?

Cheers and thanks

As to mixing oils... it's really not the best although all oils are built to handle it to a degree. Mixing normal oil in with synthetic blows all the advantages away.

However it is always better to mix than to run low on oil which will destroy your engine.

My mate who has an engineering degree on oils even recommeds that within the SAME oil it is best to stay within the batch as outside of that there are variations within the SAME oil that cause damage on a molecular level to bearings.. 8O 8O 8O That's taking it seriously.

Back to my qustion... has anyone ever heard of one of these engines acutally wearing out?

**one_iota** · 21st April 2006, 06:08 PM

Originally posted by VladTepes

I'd prefer to use a Penrite oil (what's the right one ? Somebody told me a while back and I forgot ?) as its a high quality AUSSIE product.

Cheers and thanks

Good evening Vlad,

The Penrite site contains an Oil Recommendations page:

http://www.penrite.com.au

Chose your category and vehicle and up comes the recommended oil.

You might like to linger on the home page though :wink:

**disconut** · 21st April 2006, 06:09 PM

Originally posted by Captain_Rightfoot

Anyway, has anyone ever heard of a td5 wearing out? (ie cams, bearings, or piston/rings)

Somewhere on the net or via the dealer I heard 800k is the life for a TD5. I have never owned a vehicle past 140k. (my S1 TDi300).

Trev.

**rick130** · 21st April 2006, 09:25 PM

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>The lower the first number, the better for diesels, as you want cold protection for the engine. The thinner the oil at cold (the lower the first number), the quicker it will lubricate the engine, and thus protect it in it's most vulnerable state - cold. [/b][/quote]

depends on how 'cold' your 'cold' is

Lets look at a few different diesel lubes, their actual measured viscosity in centiStokes at 100*C and their pour point (the point at which they go from a solid to a liquid).

Mobil Delvac 1 5W-40. 14.8 cSt @ 100*C. pour point -45*C
Castrol RX Super 15W-40. 14.5 cSt @ 100*C pour point -27*C
Redline 15W-40. 15.1 cSt @ 100*C. pour point -45*C
Penrite HPR5 5W-40. 15.1 cSt @ 100*C. (no pour point given)
Shell Rimula Ultra 10W-40. 14.6 cSt @ 100*C. pour point -30*C
Castrol Magnatec 10W-40. 14.6 cSt @ 100*C. pour point <-35*C

yet at 0*C we get

D 1= 1066 cSt
RX = 1358 cSt
RL = 1122 cSt
HPR= 1350 cSt
RU = 0809 cSt
Mag = 1182 cSt

a 10W-40 (Shell Rimula Ultra) is actually thinner than both 5W's, and a 15W (Redline) is thinner than the 10W Magnatec and the Penrite HPRD5 !

It's only when you get down to North American type winter temps that the 5W-40's really show an advantage in pumpability.

HPR5 has a cranking pressure (cp) @ -30*C of 5719, yet
Magnetec has a cp of 7000 @ a warmer -25*C.
The only other directly comparable number was for the older CH-4 version of Delvac 1 which had a cp of 3250 @ -25*, and 20,000 @ -35*.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>Remember though, once the oil is black, it is no longer protecting your engine, but wearing it away, so the intervals are almost more important than the oil you use. Most modern oils also include detergents that clean your engines. I use Valvoline fully synthetic at the moment, in the 5W-40 flavour, and have been very happy with it. Personally I would be happy to put almost any semi or fully synthetic oil in my Defender, as long as it is at least 15W, and as long as I change it before it is black... [/b][/quote]

sorry, but the colour of the oil has absolutely no bearing on it's cleanliness or otherwise in a diesel. If my diesel oil didn't go black, I'd be awfully worried as it would mean that the detergents and dispersasnts were either non-existent or weren't working, in which case my engine would wear out prematurely.

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