Manually Turn over TD5

**Ralph1Malph** · 24th February 2019, 12:18 PM

Hello Brains Trust,

I'm removing the head on my TD5 using some excellent tutorials on here and other fora (Pete Simpsons is one).
I'm at the stage where I should be aligning the two cam chain links with the groove in the pulley.

But as this is a donor car, I've already removed the the A/C compressor, power steering and enhanced cornering pumps so the belt is off, but fan is still.

To paraphrase Sean Bean, 'One does not simply manually rotate the engine to align the links with the groove!'

Any tips for doing this without skinning knuckles or cussing?

With the fuel lines from the cooler to the engine disconnected and the injector harness removed, could I use the starter motor? (I understand we usually don't recommended this for a diesel).

Thoughts?

**Blknight.aus** · 24th February 2019, 12:39 PM

manual or auto?

Flicking it on the starter wont help you... it will go too far or not far enough and do so way to quickly.

A 3/4 inch ratchet on the balancer nut works as does removing the starter and barring it with a screw driver.

A filter strap around the balancer works and Ive jagged it through the access point for accessing the flex plate to torque converter bolts with a double bend screw driver once (but I only needed to go a few degrees)

IF you're at the pulling it apart stage, you dont need to align the chain and gears at this point, thats a thing for assembly, if you look further on in the RAVE it shows you the timing points for the crank and cam so you can manually reset the timing if its been lost or you're starting from scratch.

Alternatively.

Ziptie the chain to the cam gear, mark the crank and the chain location so when you put it back if you put it all back with the same alignment it doesnt matter if the marks on the chain and the cam gear are currently in alignment.

**Ralph1Malph** · 24th February 2019, 02:06 PM

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

manual or auto?

Ziptie the chain to the cam gear, mark the crank and the chain location so when you put it back if you put it all back with the same alignment it doesnt matter if the marks on the chain and the cam gear are currently in alignment.

I had thoughts along this path as well. I'm short on time and facilities (doing it in my yard with poor lighting and access).
That said, upon reflection it's rather nugatory anyways as I am fitting it to another engine, so will have to be timed.

Cheers
RJ

**discorevy** · 24th February 2019, 05:20 PM

cam cover off, rotate engine clockwise using 24mm socket ( 15/16th will do if you don't have a 24 mm ) until you see number 1 injector cam lobe start to pressure the injector, then you will be close to the point where you can drop the pin into the cam aligning recess ( or a 6'mm drill bit ), then you can zip tie the chain to the cam gear and remove it .
If you dont have access to the harmonic bolt cause you cant remove the fan then you can remove the plate at the bottom of bell housing ( 3x 8mm headed bolts ) and turn engine over with a screwdriver while looking through the hole for flywheel locking tool until you see the slot for tdc number1. Just make sure the slot correlates to the recess in the cam or you may have to go one more crank revolution
Don't worry about the 2 coloured links they are really only used when doing a full chain replacement and even then not that important

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