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Thread: RV8 3.9 Timing Cover on a 4.6

  1. #1
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    RV8 3.9 Timing Cover on a 4.6

    I am looking at a couple of options on an engine build. I am thinking a distributor on a 4.6 block which has a 4.6 Crankshaft and 4.6 Camshaft may not be as high tech as cranksensors, coil packs and ECUs but is simpler for the home mechanic particularly if you dont have the ECUs etc.

    I have a 3.9 timing cover and would like to put that on the front of the 4.6 so that it can drive a distributor. So three questions:

    1. I assume a cam shaft with a dissy drive is required. I did hear somewhere that there is an adaptor that can go in but I have only heard of that once and assume this is not the case and a new camshaft is needed.

    2. The 4.6 crankshaft has a shorter front end than a 3.9/3.5 crankshaft and I understand an adaptor is needed so the crank pulley can bolt up with the thicker timing cover. Does anyone have dimensions of this adaptor? or where they can be purchased.

    3. Other than the camshaft and crankshaft extension, are there any other issues to be considered?

    Now this is just an idea at this stage.

    Thanks

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  2. #2
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    Since I put this up I have got some answers.

    1. New camshaft required
    2. The spacer has dimensions of ID = 35mm
    OD = 45mm
    Depth = 18mm

    Not sure exactly where the spacer goes - I assume between the pulley and the end of the crank so I assume an 18mm longer pulley bolt is needed but we know what happens when you assume.

    3. Need to consider whether to go serpentine belts or V belt. The old 3.9 I have is a serpentine belt.

    The other option is not to put the 3.9 timing cover on at all and to use a trigger wheel as the crank sensor and use Megajolt to run the system. The main issue then is to work out top dead centre on the engine as it has no timing marks and the process of working out when the piston is TDC as the crank can move through many degrees of rotation with no noticeable movement of the piston when at the top or the bottom of the stroke.

    Cheers

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by 101RRS View Post
    Since I put this up I have got some answers.

    The main issue then is to work out top dead centre on the engine as it has no timing marks and the process of working out when the piston is TDC as the crank can move through many degrees of rotation with no noticeable movement of the piston when at the top or the bottom of the stroke.

    Cheers

    Garry
    You would have to pull the head to find TDC? Could you use a micrometer onto a piston? Rotate to NEAR TDC and mark the flywheel. Rotate through TDC until the micrometer reads the same again, and mark the flywheel again. TDC is half way between these marks.

  4. #4
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    In theory you do not need to take the head off.

    You can find TDC by making up a tool that screws into No 1 spark plug hole. You turn the crankshaft until the piston is about halfway up the cylinder - this is where crankshaft rotation maximises piston movement.

    You then insert the tool into the spark plug hole and screw it in until it is finger tight. Here is my tool (my real one is bigger )
    IMG_20190413_121045.jpg

    The old spark plug has been drilled out and threaded so the centre piece can be screwed in and out - you can see it has a little plastic on the end to protect the piston crown.

    So with the piston in a suitable position about half way up you either screw the centre of the tool down until it touches the piston crown or move the piston a bit. You then mark the crankshaft pulley aligned with a pointer you have already mounted on the engine .

    Leaving the tool as is, you then turn the crankshaft counter clockwise (making sure you can do this as some engines you cannot) so the piston goes down past bottom dead centre and then starts moving back up - stop when the piston just touches the the bottom of the tool - there you mark the crankshaft pulley.

    Halfway between the two marks (on the TDC side of the crank pulley) is the position of TDC (in theory).

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  5. #5
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    All RV8s are backward compatible.
    A couple of things . Be careful about the gasket that goes between the timing cover and block. In one combination the oil holes are in a different place although they look similar.

    Regard s Philip

  6. #6
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    The 4.6 crank is longer than the 3.9 one, the spacer you need goes in front of the front pulley before you fit the bolt and washer. A cheap spacer can be made from an old bottom timing chain sprocket, just remove the teeth. A serpentine front cover should be an easy fit on the 4.6 but I'm fairly sure there is a dowel on the block face you will have to remove. It's been a while since I did one. You will also need to swap the sump and oil pickup off the 3.9 as they are entirely different on the 4.6. The pickup gallery should be present in the 4.6 block for that purpose. Nothing wrong with a 3.9 serpentine front end but you have to have all the bits as the 4.6 is all different except for the water pump.

  7. #7
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    Thanks for that advice - some things I was not aware of. I have an old 3.9 with all the bits on it except for water pump.

    Just checking out options.

    Thanks

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

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