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Thread: Fuse rating help

  1. #1
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    Fuse rating help

    Hey guys, sorry for the late night questions.

    I'm hoping an electrical guru will stop me over thinking something.

    In our van I have fitted a RedArc BMS30s. It's been in there for a couple of years, but in getting ready to set off on our journey I lifted all the covers to check it all and hook it up to mains power.

    While going through its charging process on mains power I noticed the fuse for the battery connection was smoking. It's one of the weather proof inline jobs with a 40 amp fuse. Didn't blow, just melted.

    I am a little muddled by this as I have restricted it's charge output to 25 amps and have sort of worked out that it's a fair failsafe margin of 40 amps.

    But it has me thinking though. 12V at 40A is 480W, if it is charging at 14.4V at 25A that's 360W and I understand that a fuse should be large enough that a constant load is no more than 75-80% of its capacity. 360W is pretty much on that.

    Have I got this thinking right? Should I fit a 50A fuse? Is there another option to prevent the van from burning down?

    Ideally it would be good to push it right out to the chargers capacity.

    My brain isn't working currently due to being at home with my two kids for the last three weeks with three and a bit more months to go.
    '15 Discovery 4 HSE- The family bus and the kids like it!
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  2. #2
    JDNSW's Avatar
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    Wattage is not relevant for a fuse - the fuse doesn't know about the voltage, just the current (until it blows, when the interrupted voltage had better be below the rated voltage of the fuse). A fuse should not get hot, let alone melt, within its rating, but I'm wondering if the fuse holder rather than the fuse exceeded its rating? Otherwise heating will have been due to a poor contact, probably the result of corrosion - i.e. "waterproof" isn't!
    John

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  3. #3
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    If the fuse-holder is the type fitted with a spring and the spring has rusted and collapsed then there will be at least a high resistance joint or possibly sparking. I would replace the fuse-holder unless its only corrosion that can be cleaned.
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  4. #4
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    I bet the fuse holder was an inline blade type fuse holder...

    the rusty spring contact would imply a 3 or 5 ag fuse which is glass and if you're melting them please dont turn on the power until I can get there with a camera, Its been a while since youtube had a good van burn down video.

    Back to inline blade.

    the contact points to the fuse are too small for the fuse size, in the holder will be 2 spade type connectors which make contact on a very small area of the fuse. when you start punching the current through you dont have enough surface area so they start to get a touch warm and try to act like a fuse but as they are not fuseable material they just get hot. If you measure the resistance without a load onthem they will appear to have 0 Ohms but if you measure the voltage drop as the current goes up your fuse will begin to act more and more like a resistor.

    Inline blade fuses should only ever really be relied upon for about 10 Amps of constant current, a 5 minute surge of 15 amps and a peak of 20.

    "but Dave, My (XYZ) has 30 amp fuses in a very similar sort of holder"

    True, BUT...

    the fuse is to protect the wiring not the item and you'll probably find that whatever its powering has a very high startup current that only lasts a few seconds and then drops back and if its in a car then its got an open plastic box with airflow around it.

    So whats the fix?

    Well, maxi fuses are a good start BUT maxi fuses have a much higher "overdraw" before they blow.

    As for oversizing your fuses, NO... if your charger can only push out 40Amps you fit a 40 amp fuse and I'm quietly confident that a 35A fuse will hold what your charger will put out if its a blade fuse. Average Bade fuses typically dont let go inside the 10 second mark until about 125-130% of their rated capacity and wont instantly blow until about 150%.
    Dave

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  5. #5
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    Thanks guys. Thanks for the helpful replys.

    Yes it is a blade type fuse holder.

    I had a moment at 1 in the morning where I remembered it being odd that the wire to the fuse holder from the connection being warm compared to the wire it was connect to.

    I went out there and double checked the wire and it was stamped 12AWG.. 99% of the problem right there.

    Pillaged Rangie this morning for a 50amp in line fuse and it has been superb since.

    I reckon when I was putting it together I got the fuse holder out of my spares pile and fitted it without another thought.. should do things right the first time.
    '15 Discovery 4 HSE- The family bus and the kids like it!
    '89 RRC- My favorite of the bunch!
    Ex '03 Commodore 'S' ute- 450hp of uncracked 5.7lt and 6 speed manual uteness - Still crying that its gone
    Ex '06 GLXR Triton- *Gone and forgotten*

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