Had mine done by B and M Fuel Systems in Airport West here in Melbourne. Blokes name is Tony I think. Did a great job.
I have two two Zenith Stromberg CD 175 carbs that I would like to get rebuilt - they are getting a bit worn and probably got a bit of crud in them.
Looking for good but cheap () carb specialists in the Sydney area who could do the work. Yes I can google carb specialists in Sydney and get a big list but not know who is good or bad so looking for recommendations from happy customers.
Thanks
Garry
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
Had mine done by B and M Fuel Systems in Airport West here in Melbourne. Blokes name is Tony I think. Did a great job.
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Carburettor Service Co at Burwood used to be my go to for shaft rebushing, etc. for my race carbies back in the day.
They were on Parramatta Rd, Burwood.
Really they are very simple devices, especially if you don't have the really early ones with the hole with spring in the throttle blade.
I would DIY in your position. a careful dismantle and clean with new gaskets for the choke and new needles and jets will work wonders. AFAIR the throttle spindle has a nylon bush to take up wear, so really shouldn't need rebushing.
I have a suspicion of carby rebuilders since my neighbour had the 175s on his XJ6 coupe rebuilt and it would hardly run afterwards. I had a look and found that on one the throttle blade was maladjusted and was sticking closed and it was running on one carb, as the linkage join was turning instead of the throttle. Several quick open/shuts and a tighten of the linkage "W" join alleviated the problem but pretty poor to me.
Regards Philip A
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
Yes as an initial action I am thinking the same - rebuild prices are $350 per unit and i have two.
The carbs ran fine 2 years ago when the manifold they were on was taken off and stored in the shed - not working now. So maybe old fuel has dried out leaving varnish inside. I will take the carbs off and dismantle but not change any adjustments - clean up with carby cleaner and a bit of low pressure air and see what happens. I have checked the diaphragms and they are still good. Looking a Youtube it seems the float valve can stick with lack of use so I will check that.
If no luck doing a basic clean then will then look at further actions.
Thanks
Garry
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
G'day Garry,
I would't go anywhere else than Sumidel in Lakemba in Sydney. They are SU specialists and really know what they are doing. I haven't been there for about 15 years but they helped me sort out my CD175 I had on my Sigma Turbo with tuning issues.
I'd say that normal carby shops that don't specialise in constant velocity carbies are going to do you more harm than good. That was my Dad's experience with his Rover P6B after going to Ultratune back in the day.
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Adjustment and tuning isn’t hard either, not sure why so many get scared of them, but if they were working fine before as you said, a good clean and blow,out should sort them, they are heaps simpler than other carbies. The rubber diaphragms in the top can perish which will stop them pretty quick, but that’s a 5 minute fix. 👍
If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.
Well part of the problem is that the mud wasps built a nest in the rubber fuel hose half way between the filter and where the hose would have joined the left carb - fuel pressure pushed it to the first carb where it blocked the inlet sending the fuel back to the tank.
Gotta buy some cheap 13mm spanners tomorrow to modify so that I can undo the carbs from the manifold - isn't it amazing how the nuts in the easiest spots come off the easiest but the nuts in the tightest spot underneath everything else are the hardest to get out.
Once the carbs are off I will do a basic internal clean and hopefully not too much mud wasp mud went in.
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
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