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Thread: Warn XD9000 Given up the ghost.

  1. 2nd May 2006, 04:24 PM #1
    Martin Guest

    Warn XD9000 Given up the ghost.

    Last weekend, I needed to winch a couple of vehicle of the beach, including myself, and after I finished, I was unable to winch the excess wire back in. On operating the button, it just made a click. I left it for 20 minutes, assuming it had overheated, but nope - still just a click. So at the moment, I have a loop of cable on the front of the vehicle.

    Does anyone know of a reputable dealer in SA that is able to service it for me? I guess it is 6 years old, probably fitted as part of the expedition pack on the vehicle. The car itself has full and propoer history, but I am not sure of the winch. It looked relatively new, and this is only the second occasion I have needed to use it.

    I have been told it is probably the brushes, and this is easy to fix myself, and if it is easy to do - am happy to do it...

    Any assistance gratefully received.
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  2. 2nd May 2006, 04:58 PM #2
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    walker
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    Martin,
    My XD9000 did exactly the same thing last weekend. It means the solenoids are still working but motor wont turn.

    I pullued the motor apart yesterday and a heap of water came out, the holes which are meant to let the water drain out had filled with mud. I just pulled the rotor out, gave everything a hose down then put it all back together.
    Everything is working fine again now.

    If you do pull it down and have not done so for a while then it would be worth repacking the gears at the other end in a bit of molly grease, you will find most of the old grease has turned to sludge. Just dont use too much or it will bind up the gears.
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  3. 2nd May 2006, 05:04 PM #3
    Martin Guest
    Thasnk Adma, sounds fairly easy to correct. As for taking it apart, is it straight forward? I would not like to open up the gearbox, and assume that that is in it's own separate compartment?

    Martin
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  4. 2nd May 2006, 05:46 PM #4
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    walker
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    Motor is straight forwards. Undo the 2 bolts at the end, this removes the top cap where you find the brushes etc. Next unbolt the 2 "cross rails" which run across the spool, they are allen key bolts. You can then tap the plate off the bottom of the motor shaft. Lastly use a centre punch or the like to tap the other end of the motor shaft out of the top bearing and the rotor should drop out.

    Gearbox end is a bit more complicated but if you make sure you keep everything in the correct order it is not tto bad, the biggest hassle is lining everything up when you put it back together.
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  5. 3rd May 2006, 06:47 AM #5
    Martin Guest
    Thanks Adam - appreciate the tips...

    Martin
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  6. 3rd May 2006, 08:14 AM #6
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    rick130
    rick130 is offline Moderator Gold Subscriber
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    IIRC, the recommended grease is ' AEROSHELL 17' which isn't that easy to find. As the name suggests, it's an aviation spec grease. It's a full synthetic (di-ester) , 5% moly fortified grease. Also, if replacing it, make sure that all the old grease is removed as it's thickener (micro-gel) may not be compatable with the grease you are replacing it with.

    As to it's visosity, I'm trying to work out how a 3.1 cSt (100*C) grease compares to the NLGI scale commonly used for automotive and industrial greases. I tried cutting and pasting from the PDF specs I have, but it came out as gobbledygook.
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