I think it is as simple as it looks (never done it though) - except that a leaking seal usually indicates the sealing surface is excessively worn and replacing the seal will be a short term fix.
John
Guys,
I need to replace the input seal on my 3 bolt power steering box, it is leaking just a bit too much.
Is it as simple as it looks?
It seems all I need do is unbolt the steering column shaft, prise out the seal and press in a new one, without removing the box.
There is nothing in the manual.
Has anybody done this? I must be getting cynical, it seems a bit too straightforward.
:roll:
I think it is as simple as it looks (never done it though) - except that a leaking seal usually indicates the sealing surface is excessively worn and replacing the seal will be a short term fix.
John
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
CJ replaced his with a 4 bolt from a low mileage wrecked Defender...too easy![]()
Mahn England
DEFENDER 110 D300 SE '23 (the S M E G)
Ex DEFENDER 110 wagon '08 (the Kelvinator)
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members-rides/105691-one_iotas-110-inch-kelvinator.html
Ex 300Tdi Disco:
JDNSW,
Thanks, I just put this in, from a wrecker, there was no leakage from the lower seal, I am hoping that the input seal may have gotten a bit brittle.
The box seemed in reasonable nick, fingers crossed..
You know how it is, the last thing I want to do is do it all again..![]()
'Tis a bitch to remove the seal (on the 4-bolt box) and even harder to remove the drop arm (Pitman arm). I used an hydraulic puller I was able to borrow from a place my son worked at the time.
See http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/s...teeringbox.html - I've put a few pix there.
Ron
Ron B.
VK2OTC
2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA
RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever
One of the drawbacks of power steering is that the fluid leaks out so much more easily than the stuff in a manual box, and most of the time the steering still works perfectly well, but leaks (like mine), and the cost of renewing the bit the seal works on makes a new box look attractive!Originally posted by DeeJay
JDNSW,
Thanks, I just put this in, from a wrecker, there was no leakage from the lower seal, I am hoping that the input seal may have gotten a bit brittle.
The box seemed in reasonable nick, fingers crossed..
You know how it is, the last thing I want to do is do it all again.. :cry:
John
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
Nothing attractive about the price of a new box, the reco's will only have new seals and bushes, there is an oversize seal available that should solve your leaking problems as long as the sector shaft isnt worn beyond re use.
MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
1998 Triumph Daytona T595
1974 VW Kombi bus
1958 Holden FC special sedan
The dealer I bought the s/h box off said if I had any worries to just bring it back, trouble is that I really don't have the time/inclination to do it.
Interestingly he offered me a fully reco'd box with larger bushes and better seals for $650.OO. They do them there. Maybe later 4 that.
Speaking of manual boxes. I had a '77 Rangie with one of them in it and you would have to wonder why they offered a p/s unit. The manual was so light, it really felt like a powered unit.
I have depressed myself now thinking about that Rangie. I spent thousands reconditioning it as I was toying with replacing the Landie. I put in a new clutch when the old one had about 40,000klm left in it. New wheel bearings etc etc things like that. Then I got whalloped with a 6 grand tax bill as I sold some shares.
I had to sell the Rangie to pay it. I just got back what I put in it for the cost. About 100 hours - wasted.
What really hurt was the buyer was totally un impressed :?
I've recently converted my very sloppy 3 bolt P/S to a manual box.Originally posted by DeeJay
Speaking of manual boxes. I had a '77 Rangie with one of them in it and you would have to wonder why they offered a p/s unit. The manual was so light, it really felt like a powered unit.
I must say initially I found it exceptionally heavy.
One of the problems I had was the P/S was too light, the other was the slop which I could not adjust out.
Very happy with the manual box.
More feel, but heavier, which I am now used to.
Parking is still a pain.
With the pump gone, I am now toying with fitting onboard air.
I've recently converted my very sloppy 3 bolt P/S to a manual box.Originally posted by Ralf_the_RR+--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Ralf_the_RR)</div><div class='quotemain'><!--QuoteBegin-DeeJay
Speaking of manual boxes. I had a '77 Rangie with one of them in it and you would have to wonder why they offered a p/s unit. The manual was so light, it really felt like a powered unit.
I must say initially I found it exceptionally heavy.
One of the problems I had was the P/S was too light, the other was the slop which I could not adjust out.
Very happy with the manual box.
More feel, but heavier, which I am now used to.
Parking is still a pain.
With the pump gone, I am now toying with fitting onboard air.[/b][/quote]
<span style="color:blue">power steering boxes should have higher ratios as the pump does all the hard work....
manual steering boxes should have a lower ratio to make it a bit easier
to turn the wheel.....but with more turns of course.....
well...thats what we were taught at tech anyways.....</span>
| Search AULRO.com ONLY! |
Search All the Web! |
|---|
|
|
|
Bookmarks