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It certainly didn't play up like this in Corey's time that I'm aware of.
Only other thing I can guess at is theres a faulty sensor somewhere, causing it to go into limp mode intermittently. I don't know where they are or what they look like, but its possible the ecu is getting a false oil or water input. Maybe throttle pedal, who knows.
Keep us informed!
Regards
Max P
<span style="color:blue">can you borrow a crank angle sensor to test out.....
it may test ok with multi meters but play up intermittently.....
and to test the throttle pedal...you need to attach your ohms meter
and slowly press the throttle pedal to the floor and back
and check to see if you have a steady increase and decrease in resistance
without any sudden spikes.......
whatever it is thats playing up needs to heat up before it causes trouble....</span>
You say that the ECU has been changed a few times, this can be a problem in itself. Removing the plugs off the ECU can make the tabs on the Lugs of the red and black connectors to loose there contact strength. This can lead to intermittent faults. If you look inside each lug you will see they have a little flap that is suppose to push against the ECU terminal. These flaps or tabs can lay back, if this has happened each wire needs to be removed and the tabs bent back with a pin or similar. It's not easy to explain but these sorts of problems are usually something you have disturbed and this is a common problem in the electrical industry.
Oops, sorry, that should be - blown water in fuel light?
Cheers
Simon
I'd try checking EGR not jammed open...
Wastegate not jammed either open or shut (I'm betting open)
Cheers
Mike
fuel pressure may be dropping off need a pressure guage connected at the fuel regulator and go for a drive, there is no fault code for this problem,also check the small hose that goes to the pressure switch that controls the waste gate the hose may have a crack in it that opens up with heat.
These sort of problems can be a right pain in the butt to find and it may come down to trying different things,a faulty sensor should cause a fault to be logged maybe try and disconnect a sensor when the engine is cold and see if this brings on the same symptons.
Good Luck
Thanks for all the suggestions guys, sorry I did not reply earlier but I just finished swapping out the power steering pump which also sh&^t itself in the last week or so.
Am buggered - taking the car back to Bruce later this week - will make a list of all suggestions and run through them one by one.
Will update if and when I find anything.
Many thanks
Daz
Hmmmm....this sounds familar.
I have had similar problems over a period of 12-18 months. Who is telling you that it is not throwing any ECU errors?
Have they backed the boost off? What boost are you running?
Otherwise; a dicky:
Crank angle sensor?
MAP sensor?
MAF sensor?
I will put money on that it is going into a limp mode. When it happens next, stop, turn off the engine and let the ECU reset itself, does it then go straight back into limp mode or only after you load-up the engine? This will quickly rule out any filter/intercooler piping issues.
Let us no how you get on.
Regards
PS -- one last question. Are you getting any surging or an unresponsive throttle in low range?
Get rid of it ... go back to a standard ECU and live happily ever after ..... !! Better to drive a slow landy than an unreliable one ....
Soap box now vacant ... https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
I had a similiar problem with my TD5 Defender and all it was is the circlip that holds the arm onto the wastegate on the turbo had fallen off, hence wastegate flaps around. It wasn't till the second time that I had looked at the waste gate that I found the problem. The first time I just stuck my hand under and wiggled the arm, no movement so I assumed ok. The second time I stuck my head under to see arm just sitting on the end of wastegate actuator- no circlip. Finding right size circlip/eclip that fits properly is fun. Turbo heat shield is easy to remove if this is the problem.
Drew