Is a cracked head fairly common on 300tdi?
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Is a cracked head fairly common on 300tdi?
yepQuote:
Originally Posted by loanrangie
ordered one to try..
On earlier heads I believe it was , mine cracked right near the valve seats .Quote:
Originally Posted by rar110
They don't seem to work, confirmed by one member who's a mechanic and just did this on his ute.Quote:
Originally Posted by loanrangie
We both reckon the vacuator acts like a venturi.
He's just ordered a new one through Land Rover
Quote:
Originally Posted by rick130
i was interested in seeing if bubbles showed up in the header tank if no valve was present
thanks for the info...
what were the systems he experienced, do you know ?
Have you tried taking the cap off the main tank, filling it to the top and refitting the cap, filling the overflow to the mark, leaving the cap off, starting and idling the motor and seeing if the level drops over say 10-15 minutes? May need an occasional top up until the level settles. This could rule out the possibility of an air bubble in the tank having caused the problem, because the system is pressurised. Probably not the cause, but it's an easy check before you go spending lots of money.
I speak from experience with our 300Tdi. Been there, done that.
Have you tried taking the cap off the main tank, filling it to the top and refitting the cap, filling the overflow to the mark, leaving the overflow cap off, starting and idling the motor and seeing if the level drops over say 10-15 minutes? May need an occasional top up until the level settles. This could rule out the possibility of an air bubble in the system, possibly at the top, having caused the problem, because the system is pressurised. Probably not the cause, but it's an easy check before you go spending lots of money.
I speak from experience with our 300Tdi. Been there, done that.
I snapped my venturi/valve/vactuator thingie, the day before a long weekend(as is so often the case).Quote:
Originally Posted by incisor
I have lots of bits and bobs, so just added a T-piece in place, and the Tdi ran hot(not overheated, but a min 10°C or more hotter than it's usual low 80's)
Posted about it on here, and was given advice to add a small tube inside the t-piece long enough so that it passes the centre port.
I used a hard vac tube small enough to fit inside the T-piece, then heated up the vac tube to open up the one end so that it didn't just slip right through into the t-piece and into the expansion tank.
Imagine a funnel. So the small tube inside the t-piece(brass) looks like a funnel, inserted from the engine side of the hose and it doesn't slide in through the t-piece, but it's length passes the port that turns back to the radiator.
Works perfectly, brass a lot stronger than plastic(so no fear of my incompetent heavy handedness again).
Been over two years now, have since replaced all rubber hoses with a full silicon hose kit, re-checked the brass t-piece and it's vac hose insert .. no worries, maybe 18months ago too.
I still ordered a valve assembly, annoys me that you can only get it as a full assembly, and not just the small valve that's been hanging in my shed wall for over two years unused .. probably never will either.
Sorry can't help with sizes of the t-piece and the dia of the vac tube .. I think I grabbed the bit of vac tube off my D2 wreck.
But just T or Y piece in place may not work 100%(or so I've been told). Dunno about the Y piece, never tried, but (from experience) don't use a plain T piece, it needs the tube insert.
i don't usually have any trouble bleeding my 300tdi'sQuote:
Originally Posted by DiscoMick
i just park nose up in my driveway and fill them slowly and run them up, then seal them off
but will be playing the game again when i get time..
ta
I don't know, i replaced mine about a year before i did a head and never had any issues before or after.Quote:
Originally Posted by rick130
There are no valves or moving parts in them so effectively just a Y joiner anyway.