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Low coolant alarm intermittently going off, and losing a little coolant I think.Quote:
Originally Posted by incisor
The line from the t/stat bleed was blocked.
Put in a brass tee as a temporary measure and still the same but he had the same issue with his D1 years ago doing the same.
Used the brass tee and still the same.
Used the correct bit, problem solved.
And best to ask Mario directly but Matt deals with him and Mario said the ones he was getting were faulty too often so Matt is getting genuine.
I know, maybe read Arthurs post above?Quote:
Originally Posted by loanrangie
All I can think of is that the angles need to be right to pull the air out of both bleeds.
Matt's a switched on mechanic and has tried both, only the genuine bit stopped the overheating.
Yes and No(kind'a sort'a)Quote:
Originally Posted by loanrangie
I just fetched mine(the unused one I ordered ages ago).
Brand new still, just dusty(fell into a small gap between loads of stuff, and sat there all this time).
Cleaned off hose ends, and blew through.
From the engine side when you blow air through, most of that air comes through to the expansion tank hose end, and very little to the radiator hose end .. so it is more restricted in the UFO valve thing.
If you block the expansion tank hose end, its then a little harder to to blow through the engine side end hose, and not as much air comes through the radiator end of the hose(not as much air out, as the effort to blow through).
Block the radiator hose end tho, and it's much easier to maintain air into hose, and more air(by sound) seems to come out through to the expansion tank hose end.
radiator hose is smaller ID compared to the other two hose IDs tho .. so maybe that's why the restriction, but it's not a lot smaller(maybe 4mm ID vs 5mm IDs for the other two).
So, yeah, it's just a three way junction, but it is 'restricted' in some way/somehow, even tho it's still flows all the time through all 3 hose ends.
its a double venturi.
flow from the engine side or the radiator side towards the header tank draws air from the radiator or engine respectively.
This is why the piece of vac tube flared into A Tpiece works so well.
Some of the vactuators have a pair of bumper type one way valves in them to stop coolant flowing backwards out of the header tank into the radiator or the thermostat housing.
a Y piece will usually work if you get it so the Y points down away from the thermostat and radiator but is still higher than the radiator bleed, lower than thermostat and without any downhill legs
Ah! makes sense now .. and why a T piece didn't work well for me(until I fitted the inner tube part).Quote:
Originally Posted by Blknight.aus
The flow from thermostat housing and radiator into the expansion tank coming from both the top of the Y bits flowing more smoothly into the expansion tank.
Hard for the flow to do a sharp almost U turn from one top port and back to the other, but still flow smoothly towards the expansion tank.
I just cut the crimps off the hose and fitted the Y fitting with clamps and had no problems after.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blknight.aus
Cheers Dave, guessed it had to be a venturi of some description