Have you got a volts guage if so check the connections. Might be worth checking the alternator wires as well. They were the causes on our old cars.
Good luck.
I have an intermittent electrical fault in my 02MY Defender - all the electrics cut out periodically both stationary and on the road. And I mean ALL the electrics, even the hazard lights. On a couple of occasions the radio has reset itself. Most of the time it is for only a fraction of a second, when driving a couple of times it was so brief the engine just hiccupped and then kept going.
Now I have already checked the battery terminals and they are secure, I have pressed all the fuses and relays in the fuse box - they seem fine. Can't find anything loose in the ECU box under the driver's seat. It seems most likely that it is a loose connection, and somewhere straight off the battery.
Has anybody got any ideas? Are there any connections that are particularly prone to jiggling loose? It has started (some time) after our last off-road foray. Not overly rambunctious, but maybe it was enough to unsettle whatever it is that's loose.
Have you got a volts guage if so check the connections. Might be worth checking the alternator wires as well. They were the causes on our old cars.
Good luck.
might just be a bad earth prob as well![]()
<span style="color:#006600">yep...it sounds like a loose earth.....not neccessarily on the battery terminal...but maybe on the other end of
that wire.....and find the one from the chassis to the engine as well.....
turn on your radio loud enough to hear it from under the bonnet etc....then just start wiggling wires around till
you find the one causing the problems......
check also the connectors on the ecu havent come loose......
thinking about it a bit more...a dead short could cause the same problem but is more serious.......
make sure the battery isnt bouncing around.....</span>
I have had a similar problem on the Fender, more so before start up. It was a relay. Could here it clicking.
Check your ECU connection for oil as well, this can cause similar dramas.
2011 Discovery 4 TDV6
2009 DRZ400E Suzuki
1956 & 1961 P4 Rover (project)
1976 SS Torana (project - all cash donations or parts accepted)
2003 WK Holden Statesman
Departed
2000 Defender Extreme: Shrek (but only to son)
84 RR (Gone) 97 Tdi Disco (Gone)
98 Ducati 900SS Gone & Missed
Facta Non Verba
mine used to do the same sort of thing.....![]()
then one day on our way back from camping it just stopped on the side of the road
we had no power at all didn't even have dash lights when ignition was on
turned out to be a loose earth wire in the Inner passenger front gaurd
it only took the dealership 9days to find it![]()
130's rule
Hi solmanic, you seem to have covered the obvious by checking the leads and, as pointed out by zook, a dead short is another culprit that can cause that sort of problem.
Try checking in and around the starter motor and starter motor solenoid as this is one of the few places around a vehicle where you can have a dead short but where there is no fuse protection, so it can happen repeatedly without any indication.
Cheers and keep us informed.
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(solmanic @ May 17 2006, 08:35 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
I have an intermittent electrical fault in my 02MY Defender - all the electrics cut out periodically both stationary and on the road. And I mean ALL the electrics, even the hazard lights. On a couple of occasions the radio has reset itself. Most of the time it is for only a fraction of a second, when driving a couple of times it was so brief the engine just hiccupped and then kept going.
Now I have already checked the battery terminals and they are secure, I have pressed all the fuses and relays in the fuse box - they seem fine. Can't find anything loose in the ECU box under the driver's seat. It seems most likely that it is a loose connection, and somewhere straight off the battery.
Has anybody got any ideas? Are there any connections that are particularly prone to jiggling loose? It has started (some time) after our last off-road foray. Not overly rambunctious, but maybe it was enough to unsettle whatever it is that's loose.
[/b][/quote]
I remember hearing of a similar problem with a Defender that turned out to be one of the main battery leads was faulty in that one end terminal was not properly soldered onto the cable itself. The fact that this has happened at least once suggests that removing and examining the terminal attachments and replacing any suspect cables could be worthwhile - or even replace the main battery cables on spec - should be pretty easy and cheap.
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
Thanks for all the info guys - the vehicle is at the dealer getting some other things seen to. I'll work through this list when I get it back.
Just a follow-up to fill you in on what's been happening. I picked the Defender up from the dealer and they, not surprisingly, said they couldn't locate the problem. This was mainly due to the fact that they couldn't replicate it in the workshop - typical!
Anyway, five minutes up the road I stopped at the post office and got out to check the box. When I got back in and turned the key - dash lights flickered, fuel pump cut in and out a bit and the whole thing went dead. I tried turning the key a few times but no luck. Then it all started lighting up again but the car was immobilised (usually does this when you leave it for a while without locking it). I went to press the keytag to re-mobilise the car but got no response - red alarm light still on. Then, again for no reason, the red alarm light flickered and away she went.
Now at this stage I thought it was just the same old problem, but when I got to the bank later on I went to lock the car - pressed the button and nothing happened. No response at all from the keytag but the car would still start OK.
I rang the dealer and explained all this and they said to bring it back so they could check the keytag. Sure enough, they found the battery in it was dead but I'm not sure if it carked it only just then or whether it was on the way out before. They said it might be possible that the dodgy battery in the keytag was causing all the problems but I'm not convinced as the flickering lights seem more like a loose connection.
I'll keep you posted if the problem persists or if this was, somehow, the cause of it all.
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