It is almost definately a crook sensor. Get the fault codes checked, they will tell you which one it is.
A friend of mine has a 99 V8 Disco 2.
His ABS, TC etc lights are coming on. At present he can clear them by simply turning off the ignition and switching it back on but sooner ot later the lights come back on. In case it was an electrical system problem he has had his electrical system and alternator tested and all is OK so that leaves the obvious that has been discussed here quite a few times the ABS sensors.
I have suggested that he take each of his wheels off at the weekend and either blow or with high pressure water clean the air gap between the sensors and the rotor - if that doesn't work I told him he most likely has a dud ABS sensor and he will have to take it into the stealer to be put on the diognostic computer to the read the ABS fault codes and maybe have the sensor replaced.
We have discussed disconnecting the battery etc to reset the codes but we are not going to do that just yet because he cannot find his radio codes but also because switching off the ignition seems to fix the problem for a while.
Have I missed anything - is there anything else he should check.
Thanks
Garry
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
It is almost definately a crook sensor. Get the fault codes checked, they will tell you which one it is.
Hi Gary
Im yet to get this common Disco2 fault.
From many previous posts it normally is a dirty wheel speed sensor,and if my memory serves me correctly its generaly the left front(please correct guys)
Get your mate to remove all the wheels and clean all the sensors and see how he goes.Its cheaper than getting a stealer to replace a good sensor thats showing a fault due to dirt
If the problem is still there then a reading of the computer will state which sensor is faulty.
Whilst he has the wheels are off check how much "meat" are left on the brake pads/discs as there could be a problem there triggering the fault.
Wish him the best
Andrew
DISCOVERY IS TO BE DISOWNED
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Snow White MY14 TDV6 D4
Alotta Fagina MY14 CAT 12M Motor Grader
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Mate
I have got some information for you about this, but it is not pleasent news
I too had this problem with these lights comming on, but would clear by stop and restart of vehicle.
Unlike the normal lights that come on with a wheel speed sensor fault that takes a test book computer to clear, this one will clear by turning the car of and on
My problem and those who also have experinced the same problem. The ABS modulator. This is a synonym for the words hip pocket pain.
It it is the modulator, a new one will cost you approx $6500 from a dealer. Yes you read that correctly.
I bought a second hand one from ebay for $350. I see that there are a couple on sale on ebay from the same mob in the USA at the moment that I bought mine from for approx $150US. They appear to be 2004 models which is what you want. Do a search on ebay (ebay.com.au) for "abs modulator"
Its early model DII modulators that appear to be failing
This modulator was not made my Landrover. Its a WABCO modulator and you should able to get one from other places other than a Landrover dealer
You can get the fault diagnosed as the fault code will be stored. Mine registered as a shuttle cock failure. I don't think it is possible to repair them.
Good luck. I hope it is not as I have predicted
If it is the modulator fault, you can now purchase the offending shuttle valve as a seperate part, instead of buying the whole unit. MUCH cheaper.
Don't panic yet...
JohnV is right it could be a modulator. BUT that is only of of the possibilities and definitely the most expensive. Often as stated below it is dirty wheel sensors or a faulty sensor ( might cost a couple of hundred $). Get your car onto a testbook system and get them to read the codes - without that you are just guessing.
Mark
Mark
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2015 TDV6 D4.... the latest project... Llams, Traxide, Icom 455, Tuffant Kimberleys and Mofos.... so far.
2012 SDV6 SE D4 with some stuff... gone...
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Don't panic yet...
JohnV is right it could be a modulator. BUT that is only one of the possibilities and definitely the most expensive. Often as stated below it is dirty wheel sensors or a faulty sensor ( might cost a couple of hundred $). Get your car onto a testbook system and get them to read the codes - without that you are just guessing.
Mark
Mark
Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most![]()
2015 TDV6 D4.... the latest project... Llams, Traxide, Icom 455, Tuffant Kimberleys and Mofos.... so far.
2012 SDV6 SE D4 with some stuff... gone...
2003 D2a TD5...gone...
2000 D2 V8...gone...
https://bymark.photography
Thanks for the advice - the guy is getting his local bush mechanic who actually very familiar and happy to work on late model landies to remove the wheel sensors, clean them and reinstall (can't test them obviously). My mate has no idea about things mechanical. If the problem comes back he will be off to the stealer for the diognostic.
If the problem comes back as the modulator I will pass on your comments about just getting the bits.
You are all a great help as usual.
Thanks
Garry
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
when the lights come on mine and I read the fault code it is always the shuttle valve coming up have never had any wheel sensor fault come up yet and where can you by the valves? would like to get one and change it out
disco seriesII mods so far:-bullbar,hyd winch,
detriot locker,lsd front,C.D.L kit,chipped and bigger intercooler,2" lift,rock sliders, lsd in transfer case, modified auto trans.
In the event of nuclear war,Disregard this message
I have recently been through the ABS, TC and HD lights. After a few different techs having a look and various quotes, none of which I was happy with the logic they used, I ended up at Prestige (ADL). The car had logged the front left hand sensor as intermittently going open circuit, as others had found. However, Prestige could replicate the fault with physical manipulation of the sensor cable. I was happy with that as I hate getting something replaced only on a hunch (especially at LR prices). The sensor cable was then replaced and so far so good.
Today I stripped the old sensor loom back for curiosity and discovered one of the wires was broken completely through. The ends were still touching, giving the intermittent open circuit (as opposed to the normal 1K ohm). The break through point was about 6 inches from the sensor, directly under the second grommet.
If anyone else has this problem, it may be worth grabbing a meter and playing around.
Pete.
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