Auto Electrical Equivalent of Electric Busbar??

**Blknight.aus** · 10th April 2020, 10:29 PM

Originally Posted by Lionelgee

Hello Dave,

Bad Earth.... Hmmm I ran two new earth cables for the relays. Then I made a new earth-point and bolted the leads to bare metal. Then gave it a coat of rust prevention paint

However I used the original earth wire off the old loom for the headlight socket. I have new headlight sockets as the old ones were disintegrating in my hands. I thought that the new headlamp sockets would fix any connection issues. I was obviously wrong about the Earth side of that idea!

Looks like I will be running some nice thick new earth wires and making a new earth point for for each headlight. Gee a 1970's wiring system is compromised. Who would of thunk it!

It's 10:30 pm... I have been advised that I am not going to go out with a torch and try in fix the circuit tonight. Apparently - I have been told - that it can wait until morning.

================================================== ===========================================
The plan for tomorrow is:

I will replace the wires that connects (1) each light's low beam & (2) each light's high beam. These wires are marked as "original" in the circuit drawing shown as an attachment.

The low beam connection wire will be powered by tapping in the Output from Pin 87 from one relay.

Then Pin 87 on the other relay will be used to provide power to the high beams.

Plus of course each headlight socket will have its own earth running to its own earth point (just like it shows in the circuit diagram).

The 87A pin will not be used on either relay.

Tomorrow.

================================================== ===============================

Dave would you take the feed for Terminal 30 straight from a connector on the positive terminal of the battery.

Or take the feed for Pin 30 off the fused connector box that I newly installed?

Kind regards
Lionel

Id pull it from a fuse the way you're wring up you can simplify your wiring by joining the pin 30's together at the relay holder and joining both 85's together.

as its a 2/2a system you can do it with just one relay.

grab the feed from the original feed to the kick switch, splice that in so it also goes to pin 30, take the original high beam out put and wire it to pin 86 then wire low beam to 87a and high beam to 87 pin 85 to earth and done.

1 the normal headlight switch powers up the kick switch and the relay power feed the kick switch then turns the relay on or off.

of course I'd wire it up with 2 relays, a SPST 4 pin to power up the headlight circuit in total and a spdt 5 pin relay to flick high to low beam.

**Lionelgee** · 10th April 2020, 10:34 PM

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

Id pull it from a fuse

Cheers Dave.

Well that is it for me for the night. Hopefully I will get everything squared away tomorrow morning.

In closing, lesson Learnt for the day: do not take short-cuts with old earth wires. Make new ones for each unit - such as a headlight

Kind regards
Lionel

**workingonit** · 11th April 2020, 07:48 PM

Originally Posted by theelms66

Dreaming

Not sure what you mean. It happened to my land cruiser with a battery slightly oversize to what should have gone in.

**AK83** · 12th April 2020, 08:05 AM

Couple of things I have that will do the job for the OP.

depending on what kind of power requirements he needs for those accessories.

Mta 3 Way Battery Positive Distribution Terminal Connector Car Dual Accessories | eBay
I have these on both my batteries on my D1(main and Aux).
the ability to separately disconnect the electrical thing that you're working on without disconnecting the battery is handy

Also have a couple of these.

Multi-connect Battery Terminal/Spade terminals included/Does not need screws | eBay
Got them for brothers D2, which was a bit of a wiring mess.
We removed the single battery and installed dual batteries, so had the chance to do a major cleanup of the mess of wires on the battery terminal, so didn't end up using them in the end.
The only point with this product is that the spade connectors are very cheapo quality, and you'd be better to use your own, hopefully better quality spade terminals.

**Lionelgee** · 13th April 2020, 06:35 AM

Hello All,

I have high and low beam re-established to the Shortie for the first time prior to my ownership. Now it is time to move onto something else.

Bluey - my International 1973 ex-Telecom van has a mid-mount battery stored in a separate box mounted low on the side of the cargo area - positioned behind the driver's seat. Unsurprisingly Bluey's headlight and indicator wires are detached - laying loose and have bare frayed wire running about 2 cm down from the tips. There are no signs of any headlight relays either.

I will be buying the same fused terminal box that I just used in the shortie; along with a couple of four pin relays - however, with a remote battery where should I mount these components?

What is the most advantageous:

1) a shorter positive wire from the battery feeding the fused junction box mounted onto the firewall. The headlight relays could be mounted close to the junction box. Then have a longer run of wires from the relay to the headlights; or...

2) have a longer length of positive wire powering the fused terminal box that is mounted towards the front of the engine bay and mount them on the side of mudguard. The relays could be mounted close by and this would provide shorter wires spanning the distance from the relays to the headlights?

There is one thing for sure about Bluey - there is plenty of space in the engine bay to mount a lot of stuff without the threat of overcrowding.

Who knows what other wiring mysteries lie in store for me with Bluey????

Kind regards
Lionel

**Blknight.aus** · 13th April 2020, 07:22 AM

pick the feed up from the alternator

**Lionelgee** · 13th April 2020, 09:58 AM

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

pick the feed up from the alternator

Hello Dave,

Cheers - that is nice and handy access to power!

Kind regards
Lionel

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