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Thread: Wiring for battery box

  1. #1
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    Wiring for battery box

    Hi all,

    As I no longer have my D3 i no longer have a second battery to run the fridge. As I dont wish to install a 2nd battery in the territory i am looking to purchase a battery box and an AGM battery. It will be a 100Ah+ battery. I'm leaning thia way as it is more versatile than a dual battery system and I can move it to the next car or to our second car if I want to.

    I dont want to run it of the rear cig plug as I'm concerned it will charge super slowly through the thin wiring (im not sure what its rated to and it might get hot) so i am looking to install some 6mm cabling to the boot with an Anderson plug. I was also thinking of installing a relay to isolate it when the ignition is off.

    Has anyone done this before? Any tips or tricks? Also, how do i calculate the fuse size? The main danger is shorting out somewhere (I'm not running any heavy loads off it, just battery charging).

    Any help is appreciated!

    Dan

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Disco-tastic View Post
    Hi all,

    As I no longer have my D3 i no longer have a second battery to run the fridge. As I dont wish to install a 2nd battery in the territory i am looking to purchase a battery box and an AGM battery. It will be a 100Ah+ battery. I'm leaning thia way as it is more versatile than a dual battery system and I can move it to the next car or to our second car if I want to.

    I dont want to run it of the rear cig plug as I'm concerned it will charge super slowly through the thin wiring (im not sure what its rated to and it might get hot) so i am looking to install some 6mm cabling to the boot with an Anderson plug. I was also thinking of installing a relay to isolate it when the ignition is off.

    Has anyone done this before? Any tips or tricks? Also, how do i calculate the fuse size? The main danger is shorting out somewhere (I'm not running any heavy loads off it, just battery charging).

    Any help is appreciated!

    Dan
    Hi Dan
    Calculate your fuse size from the current that you intend to run through the cable and then size the cable to the fuse
    Have you got somewhere secure for your battery box, if you have an accident you’ll have 25+kgs of battery flying through the vehicle unless it is secured
    Gav
    1985 110 Dual Cab 4.6 R380 ARB Lockers (currently NIS due to roof kissing road)
    1985 110 Station Wagon 3.5 LT85 (unmolested blank canvas)

  3. #3
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    From my experience 12V fridges generally draw about 4 amps give or take a bit. if you were to run a 10A fuse that would be ok, I would use a 15 or 20 amp fuse just to be sure. Cig/power outlets are notoriously dangerous running fridges, there have been more than a few stories about fires. to my mind Anderson plug type connectors are more reliable.

    regards
    Geoff

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gav 110 View Post
    Hi Dan
    Calculate your fuse size from the current that you intend to run through the cable and then size the cable to the fuse
    Have you got somewhere secure for your battery box, if you have an accident you’ll have 25+kgs of battery flying through the vehicle unless it is secured
    Gav
    Cheers Gav,

    How do I calculate the current draw when the battery is charging from empty? Is there info like that from the battery manufacturer? I'm pretty sure the charging current is going to be much higher then the fridge draw current. Once i have that number I can figure the rest out.

    The max output of the alternator is 130A.

    I had also thought of seeing what size fuse most dual battery systems use and adopting that. Or giving Tim from Traxide a call!

    Regarding fixing I have a cargo barrier that the battery will likely be fixed to. Havent figured out exactly where it will go yet but its unlikely to enter the cabin.

    Cheers

    Dan

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by OldGuy View Post
    From my experience 12V fridges generally draw about 4 amps give or take a bit. if you were to run a 10A fuse that would be ok, I would use a 15 or 20 amp fuse just to be sure. Cig/power outlets are notoriously dangerous running fridges, there have been more than a few stories about fires. to my mind Anderson plug type connectors are more reliable.

    regards
    Geoff
    Thanks Geoff,

    I had thought similar but just not sure if ill need a bigger one for charging the battery. Any idea what current a charging battery draws?

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Disco-tastic View Post
    Thanks Geoff,

    I had thought similar but just not sure if ill need a bigger one for charging the battery. Any idea what current a charging battery draws?
    I am running 16m2 cable to my second battery, 25 would be a better choice and have a 100A fuse in line with that. I think it is an ANL type fuse, allows you to run your cable without reducing size to the fuse.

    Hope the helps.

    Regards

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    Quote Originally Posted by OldGuy View Post
    I am running 16m2 cable to my second battery, 25 would be a better choice and have a 100A fuse in line with that. I think it is an ANL type fuse, allows you to run your cable without reducing size to the fuse.

    Hope the helps.

    Regards
    Yeah that size fuse is more what i was anticipating. Thanks for the help!

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Disco-tastic View Post
    Cheers Gav,

    How do I calculate the current draw when the battery is charging from empty? Is there info like that from the battery manufacturer? I'm pretty sure the charging current is going to be much higher then the fridge draw current. Once i have that number I can figure the rest out.

    The max output of the alternator is 130A.

    I had also thought of seeing what size fuse most dual battery systems use and adopting that. Or giving Tim from Traxide a call!

    Regarding fixing I have a cargo barrier that the battery will likely be fixed to. Havent figured out exactly where it will go yet but its unlikely to enter the cabin.
    Cheers

    Dan
    Hi Disco-tastic

    From my experience (not a huge amount with 12volts so maybe Tim is the right man to talk to) your alternator may be able to put out 130 amps, but your car probably draws 50 of that to keep running

    As Oldguy has stated he has 16mm cable in his rig and that is probably the minimum size I’d be putting in, cable current ratings are usually very easy to look up on the internet,
    https://www.rpc.com.au/pdf/Wire_Chart.pdf
    looking at the link above 35mm2 cable with a 100 amp fuse would be the way to go

    Gav
    1985 110 Dual Cab 4.6 R380 ARB Lockers (currently NIS due to roof kissing road)
    1985 110 Station Wagon 3.5 LT85 (unmolested blank canvas)

  9. #9
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    Cool

    Hi Disco-tastic,

    For an AGM battery the charging current it will accept is generally about 1/3 of its A/H range (Gel about 1/4 and trad flooded 10 to 15%) . So if you were putting in a 120 A?H AGM you should bank on 40 amps charging current.
    In your case the receiving battery will limit the current, as long as this current draw (40) is below the alternator delivery, but in the initial couple of minutes your start battery would be supplying a fair bit of the current anyway.
    You would need to get this exact current draw from the battery you install, but give yourself some head room over that.

    Given the length of your wire run would be about 3 meters (?), you could technically get away with 4mm (Squared) in a pinch, but I would be installing 6mm and a 50 amp fuse, ( I use a breaker ) that would give you a bit of head room.

    I have had this setup for a 125 A/H battery in both my cars and it gives me no trouble at all . The wires will get warm for the first 15mins if the house battery is well down, but once the battery starts to gain charge the current will be easing off.

    Installing 25mm and 200 amps fuse, would be better but might double the market value of your Vehicle.

    Cheers Glen

  10. #10
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    Hi Dan, over the last couple of years I have been asked to come up with some form of battery box, along the lines of what you are considering.

    To this end, I decided not to go down that road JUST YET.

    But I have supplied a number of modified SC80 isolators, specifically pre-assembled with 50 amp Anderson Plugs on the input and output, but I will come back to this later.

    For optimum performance without going overboard, running either 6B&S twin ( 13.5mm2 x 2 ) or Marine 16mm2 twin, is the best way to charge batteries that are located away from the engine bay.

    This means batteries in the rear of a vehicle or in a camper trailer or caravan.

    You can go thicker and you will improve the charging, but it is usually an insignificant improvement when the additional cost and work involved, is taken into account.

    Also note, that these cable sizes are based on systems using my isolators, where voltage drop is not as major a problem as it is with other systems.

    When running 6B&S, you need to use either 50 amp auto resetting circuit breakers or 60 amp fuses.

    These must be located near the positive ( + ) terminal of each battery in the system.

    If you choose the correct type of auxiliary battery, you can take advantage of the high current alternators that are used in most vehicles these days.

    I have regularly measured charge currents in excess of 65 amps over this size cable, even when the batteries are located some distance from the cranking battery, in camper trailers and caravans.

    Again, the trick is to use the correct auxiliary battery, one that will safely tolerate fast ( high current ) recharging.

    Up until recently, I was a big fan of Optima Yellowtop batteries, because of the rapid recharging capability. But like many others on this forum, I have had a number of Yellowtop batteries lately, that just did not perform as expected.

    I have been testing SSB ( Super Start Batteries ) HVT series of batteries, for just over 6 months now and I am impressed with their ability to be rapid charged. IMO, These make the ideal replacement for the Yellowtops and are considerably less expensive.

    As above, I periodically make up a modified SC80 isolators for the specific use with battery boxes. The SC80 simply plugs into an Anderson plug on the battery box and the cabling coming from the cranking battery plugs into the other end of the SC80.

    This allows the auxiliary battery in the box, to charge at a good rate while driving, but still protects the car battery while camped.

    When you no longer need the auxiliary battery, unplug the SC80 and the battery box and remove them.

    This setup also allows easy transfer from one vehicle to another.

    A combination of a fast recharging auxiliary battery, like the SSB HVT series and one of my isolators and you will have one of the most versatile Dual Battery Systems available, regardless of what make of vehicle they are used in.

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