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Thread: Rover 3.9 v8 missing badly

  1. #1
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    Rover 3.9 v8 missing badly

    Hi All,
    I thought I'd post here to see if anyone had any ideas about what is going on .... 'cos I'm scratching my head! A couple of weeks back the ****box rangie decided it wouldn't start (it had only been shut off for 5minutes while I picked up one of the kids).

    It seemed to massively flood to the point where the car hydrolocked for a second after cranking for about 15seconds (in three five second bursts) ....I coulnd't get it started even though there seemed to be spark at the plugs. so went back the next day with fresh set of plugs to try and fire it up. Initially I thought something must have happened to flood the **** out of it. Now I'm starting to think the flooding was a side effect of something that broke/died when the car was shut off. It wet No 8 plug and sounded to miss all over the place "sort of".

    I tried another set of plugs, checked the leads .... unhooked the petrol pump so it couldn't be dribbling fuel in (if there was a leaky injector). Still crappy runinng on gas. In desperation I ordered in a compression gauge.


    No 2: 135
    No 4: 137
    No 6: 137
    No 8: 120
    No 1: 140
    No 3: 135
    No 5: 135
    No 7: 145

    Low ... but certainly should run without any issues (well the gauge may read low, it was only $23 delivered on ebay). So today I checked all the HT leads, swapped the cap, rotor button, coil, ignition module with another car ... I even thought I better cover all bases and got No 1 at TDC .... made sure the rotor button was pointing and No 1 and checked the firing order (several times). It still sounds like its banging away on 6 cylinders and isn't happy. The only thing I haven't checked via substitution is the trigger wheel and sensor inside the dizzie. Does anyone have any ideas about what is going on here ? It seems to be No 7 and No 8 that don't wan't to fire. Given its running on LPG ... it has fuel ... seems to have good spark ... has compression .... why no "bang" ?

    I'm thinking its possible the cam timing moved when the motor hydro-locked. Does anyone know of a simple way of checking the cam timing? .......... I don't understand how it hydro-locking against the starter would hurt the valve train though .... both valves are shut on the cormpession stroke where the cylinder stops. The only thing I think this could do is cause a bent crank rod (which the compression check should show).

    I'm rapidly running out of ideas here .... changing over the trigger wheel and sensor in the dizzie is my last desperate attempt to fix this (which I'm sure will make absoutley no difference ).
    Proper cars--
    '92 Range Rover 3.8V8 ... 5spd manual
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I :burnrubber:
    '63 ID19 x 2 :wheelchair:
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas
    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual :zzz:
    '11 Poogoe RCZ HDI 6spd manual

  2. #2
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    What year is the engine? V belt or serpentine? Something completely left field that happened to me was the drive gear at the end of the cam completely stripped. This was during my saga where the car would run without the fuel pump and then would die with it in. When I thought I had fixed it, it drove ok for a little bit then wouldn't start again. At this point the timing was so far out it had me baffled as to what was going on as I had to wind the dizzy right around to get it to cough. I pulled the dizzy, only to find the drive gear stripped.

    Sounds extreme, but it's a possibility.

    Now before you go crazy, just try to adjust your timing, see if you can get the miss to disipate and maybe run it on petrol too if that's an option.

    Also check your earth's!
    '15 Discovery 4 HSE- The family bus and the kids like it!
    '89 RRC- My favorite of the bunch!
    Ex '03 Commodore 'S' ute- 450hp of uncracked 5.7lt and 6 speed manual uteness - Still crying that its gone
    Ex '06 GLXR Triton- *Gone and forgotten*

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Konradical View Post
    What year is the engine? V belt or serpentine? Something completely left field that happened to me was the drive gear at the end of the cam completely stripped. This was during my saga where the car would run without the fuel pump and then would die with it in. When I thought I had fixed it, it drove ok for a little bit then wouldn't start again. At this point the timing was so far out it had me baffled as to what was going on as I had to wind the dizzy right around to get it to cough. I pulled the dizzy, only to find the drive gear stripped.

    Sounds extreme, but it's a possibility.

    Now before you go crazy, just try to adjust your timing, see if you can get the miss to disipate and maybe run it on petrol too if that's an option.

    Also check your earth's!
    serpentine belt 3.9 in a range rover classic. I've had the dizzie out to swap the ignition module over and its drive gear looks fine.... Excellent idea though, I'll shine a light down into the dizzie hole and see if the drive gear on the camshaft is intact. I also refitted it and rolled the motor forward then back to see if there was a delay in the rotor button moving forward/back (ie: timing chain slack). There was none.

    I'm going to pull the rocker covers this afternoon and see if the valves are all fully opening and closing properly. This is fun right? Just as well I don't desperately need the car right now!
    Proper cars--
    '92 Range Rover 3.8V8 ... 5spd manual
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I :burnrubber:
    '63 ID19 x 2 :wheelchair:
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas
    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual :zzz:
    '11 Poogoe RCZ HDI 6spd manual

  4. #4
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    I'm not heaps familiar with the serpentine belt engines. From memory the oil pump is driven differently, or is that the earlier ones again..

    If you turned the engine over and the rotor is pretty tight, I wouldn't bother checking the drive gear. Sounds like it is pretty good.

    Def have a look at your earth's still.

    Have fun with that manifold. Does my head in having to take it all apart to take a rocker cover off, then the heater hoses..
    '15 Discovery 4 HSE- The family bus and the kids like it!
    '89 RRC- My favorite of the bunch!
    Ex '03 Commodore 'S' ute- 450hp of uncracked 5.7lt and 6 speed manual uteness - Still crying that its gone
    Ex '06 GLXR Triton- *Gone and forgotten*

  5. #5
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    This is incrdedibly frustrating .... I could have had another motor swapped in 3 times over given the time I've now spent going in circles

    I whipped the drivers side rocker cover off and rolled the motor over.... the valves are doing all the "valve" things nice and smoothly. Im confident I can rule out mechanical engine problems now. So I whipped the dizzie out to swap in the other that is fitted iwth a different set of ingition pickups .... and chased the dizzie clamp nut over to the back of the water pump with my finger tips at which point it "dissapeared". I've spent an hour searching for it now. It didn't rattle or clunk, so it didn't fall through to the ground ..... but it sure as **** isn't there anywhere I can find. Is there anyway I've just dropped that dizzie clamp nut down into the timing chain case ?? I don't want to crank the motor until I've found that damn nut!


    Oh, can anyone tell me who the clown was that fitted 12 point 8mm bolts to the rocker covers .... I feel I need to give them a good slap around the ears I don't own one ... My father finally found one of his sets went down to 8mm in 3/8ths ... so was 12point.
    Proper cars--
    '92 Range Rover 3.8V8 ... 5spd manual
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I :burnrubber:
    '63 ID19 x 2 :wheelchair:
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas
    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual :zzz:
    '11 Poogoe RCZ HDI 6spd manual

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron View Post
    This is incrdedibly frustrating .... I could have had another motor swapped in 3 times over given the time I've now spent going in circles

    I whipped the drivers side rocker cover off and rolled the motor over.... the valves are doing all the "valve" things nice and smoothly. Im confident I can rule out mechanical engine problems now. So I whipped the dizzie out to swap in the other that is fitted iwth a different set of ingition pickups .... and chased the dizzie clamp nut over to the back of the water pump with my finger tips at which point it "dissapeared". I've spent an hour searching for it now. It didn't rattle or clunk, so it didn't fall through to the ground ..... but it sure as **** isn't there anywhere I can find. Is there anyway I've just dropped that dizzie clamp nut down into the timing chain case ?? I don't want to crank the motor until I've found that damn nut!


    Oh, can anyone tell me who the clown was that fitted 12 point 8mm bolts to the rocker covers .... I feel I need to give them a good slap around the ears I don't own one ... My father finally found one of his sets went down to 8mm in 3/8ths ... so was 12point.

    Well I changed the pickup in the dizzie .... and the car started "as normal". ie: rather than cranking for 5seconds before spluttering to life, it now fires instantly again .... with a distint heavy miss. So i changed the lead and plug on No 8 and tried again ..... and it wet the plug. So I put the compression gauge into that hole and fired it back up. Sigh ...... < 75psi tops .... I've bent a conrod when it hydrolocked.... or damaged something. That's a shame ... given every other pot is near bang on 135psi .... this was a good motor!! (was ).
    Proper cars--
    '92 Range Rover 3.8V8 ... 5spd manual
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I :burnrubber:
    '63 ID19 x 2 :wheelchair:
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas
    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual :zzz:
    '11 Poogoe RCZ HDI 6spd manual

  7. #7
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    Sorry to hear Rover 3.9 v8 missing badly

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron View Post
    Well I changed the pickup in the dizzie .... and the car started "as normal". ie: rather than cranking for 5seconds before spluttering to life, it now fires instantly again .... with a distint heavy miss. So i changed the lead and plug on No 8 and tried again ..... and it wet the plug. So I put the compression gauge into that hole and fired it back up. Sigh ...... < 75psi tops .... I've bent a conrod when it hydrolocked.... or damaged something. That's a shame ... given every other pot is near bang on 135psi .... this was a good motor!! (was ).
    I doubt very much that you have "hydrolocked" #8 cylinder just with petrol. Even with a free flowing faulty injector it is doubtful that enough fuel could ever enter just one cylinder while cranking.

    The head has to come off whatever is the fault, and I suspect that it is probably a burnt valve.

  9. #9
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    We are both chasing an issue see posts in distributor drive failureRover 3.9 v8 missing badly

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Old Farang View Post
    I doubt very much that you have "hydrolocked" #8 cylinder just with petrol. Even with a free flowing faulty injector it is doubtful that enough fuel could ever enter just one cylinder while cranking.

    The head has to come off whatever is the fault, and I suspect that it is probably a burnt valve.
    Did you see the video ? How does full full pump capacity pumping straight into No 8 sound ? it definitely hydrolocked against the starter

    I'm really good at this stuff. I figured I'd whip the head off and find out what actually happened... Yeah, that is supposed to be an alloy engine block right? I've ended up twisting the edges off the firewall head bolt, so I'll have to go retrieve my engine crane and pull the motor out (and hopefully get that head bolt out). The two front head bolts ..... My breakers bar would be nearly 1meter long. I was bending it so far that it was almost impossible to hold the socket in positiion as the lever would hit something. How on earth are those bolts easily 500Nm ++ and there still be thread in the alloy block.

    Oh, and the pushrod assembly has munched the threads on the bolt above No 8 cylinder (unrelated to me issues though this would be).

    I just googled it... those head bolts should be 95Nm .... that is something I could undo with a standard ratchet..... Not fail with a 1meter breakers bar and impact socket!

    The problem I'll have is once the engine is out. These head bolts are so tight, I'll be just turning the motor on the ground rather than loosening the bolts. This could be fun!
    Proper cars--
    '92 Range Rover 3.8V8 ... 5spd manual
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I :burnrubber:
    '63 ID19 x 2 :wheelchair:
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas
    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual :zzz:
    '11 Poogoe RCZ HDI 6spd manual

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