Hex Socket Size 200TDI Crank Bolt Metric

Hello All,

It looks like the crank nut holding tool is also called an Engine Anti-rotation Tool, accessed 26th January 2021, from Engine Anti-rotation Tool. Despite this specialised tool Craig90, in September 15, 2008 describes, then we used there 3/4 driver bar with the socket on the end with a trolley jack handle attached! This made the bar 8 foot long! Even though it was that long it took me and a friend to swing on the bar at the same time to undo it!!
200tdi cambelt service, very tight crank bolt! | LandyZone - Land Rover Forum

The Engine Anti-rotation Tool is available from Engine Anti-rotation Tool I have no relationship to the retailer. It is the same tool that Trailerfitter's Toolbox featured in a clip that I mentioned in an earlier post on this thread (200tdi / 2.5NAD / 2.5Td crank holding tool - used when undoing the crank dog nut - YouTube). The Anti-rotation Tool is described as: laser cut 8mm thick steel blank welded to a hefty 16mm thick by 53mm deep solid steel collar which bolts to the pulley with the four high tensile steel bolts supplied.

I am so looking forward to tackling the crank nut in the very near future!

Kind regards
Lionel

Hello All,

A simple version of the crank nut holding tool was made by Glencoyne Timing belt hints and tips - by Glencoyne Engineering as per the photograph. It looks like something that is quite well suited to being home made.

Kind regards
Lionel

Have fun Lionel
Looks like you have the skills and tenacity to “getterdone”

In Australia
200tdi was up till 1993/94
300tdi 1994 till 1999/2000
tD5 2000 till 2008
Tdci 2.4 was 2008 & 2009
Tdci 2.2 was 2010 or so till the end

Not many 2.5L non turbo (pre 200tdi) came to aus as far as I Know?


Fingers crossed you hit the starter and the nut spins off!!!

Steve

Hello All,

Today, armed with a nice new 30 mm hex impact socket and a fully charged rattle gun, I approached the Defender's engine bay...

It transpired that not even a smidgeon of rotational movement occurred. The rattle gun just bounced on the spot; polishing the nut faces. This is a rattle gun that can easily take truck wheel nuts off with.

The Defender now has a nicely polished crank nut and I got to make lots of noise.

I am now waiting for a parcel to arrive from the UK. I figured the description of the materials and method of construction I provided in an earlier message about the "Engine Anti-rotational Tool" was too good for me to emulate; or to pass by.

In the meantime I will visit the crank nut each day and give it a couple of shakes with the rattle gun. Maybe the combined efforts might loosen things a bit. However, until the "anti-rotational" tool's arrival from the UK, I be ... waiting ... rattle - rattle ... waiting ...

Kind regards
Lionel

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Lionelgee

Hello All,

Today, armed with a nice new 30 mm hex impact socket and a fully charged rattle gun, I approached the Defender's engine bay...

It transpired that not even a smidgeon of rotational movement occurred. The rattle gun just bounced on the spot; polishing the nut faces. This is a rattle gun that can easily take truck wheel nuts off with.

The Defender now has a nicely polished crank nut and I got to make lots of noise.

I am now waiting for a parcel to arrive from the UK. I figured the description of the materials and method of construction I provided in an earlier message about the "Engine Anti-rotational Tool" was too good for me to emulate; or to pass by.

In the meantime I will visit the crank nut each day and give it a couple of shakes with the rattle gun. Maybe the combined efforts might loosen things a bit. However, until the "anti-rotational" tool's arrival from the UK, I be ... waiting ... rattle - rattle ... waiting ...

Kind regards
Lionel

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Lionel
Just my 2cents worth
I have found that unless the other side of the offending nut or bolt ( in your case the crank) is fixed so that it cannot move at all and can move even slightly the rattle gun ( no matter how powerful) will not work. It just shines the nut as you have found
It sounds like the “engine anti rotational tool” is essential to do this
Good luck!!
Phil

Lionel
Have you tried judicious use of heat
Application of Locktite by previous installer of said nut would NOT be out of the question

If you are planning on replacing the Crank Seal
You won’t hurt that lump of metal with some heat

Is the engine in vehicle ?
I’ve never had problems locking the crank using the gear boxes and chocking wheels

The crank nut cracker pound em with a hammer tool is likely better use of fabrication time than a device to hold the crank from spinning

Heck just lock a pin in the flywheel if you want to have a test of locking the crank ???


I’m guessing locktite or worse been used to keep the nut in place


Cookerup

Hello All,

My patiently waited for - teehee anti-rotation device - oddly labelled on the box as a "Crank Pulley Tool Set" arrived from the UK this morning! It comes with a catch though...It is labelled as for use on Jaguar's and Land Rovers... so that must mean I have to buy a Jag one day too. That way I can get full benefit of using tho tool,

It is described as a "Tool Set" because apart from the crank locking tool, it also comes with a gear puller as well. Interestingly, despite the crank locking tool having four bolt holes - just like the crank - the kit only came with two longer bolts to fit through the crank locking tool.

So after doing some more research about how to write some employment "Pitches" for some government jobs, I went out to the Defender and found out that my impact hex socket sets only go down to 11 mm! I came back in and read through a couple of more advertised jobs and then I tootled off to the bolt and tool place to buy a 10 mm deep hex socket and six long bolts. Two bolts to make up a set of four to match the amount between the tool and the pulley; plus a complete back-up set just in case things went nasty.

I took the four bolts off the crank pulley latter, and then I fitted the new specialist tool. This was followed by fitting the 30 mm impact socket to the crank bolt. I then checked the path of travel of the crank holding tool. Finding it met with the steering box - I placed a length of flat steel bar that covered the steering box at one end and the other end rested on the chassis.

I grabbed one of my breaker bars and was taking the strain and a large inward breath and was just about to "Engage Gorilla Mode" when I heard a loud "crack" and the breaker bar moved towards me. I thought the socket had slipped off the crank bolt.

Instead, the crank bolt had actually loosened. Then some short time later the crank bolt was off.

So that is it for now back to the computer and job applications - wee

Kind regards
Lionel

Hello All,

This afternoon I set about continuing the disassembly so I can get the timing cover off. Once I removed the crank pulley lock tool the pulleys slid off without needing the puller tool that came with the new set from the UK. Then off came the water pump and all the other multitudinous 10 mm socket sized bolts. Plus, one nut which is 13 mm for the water pump stud. I used a piece of ply with some wooden stud rails to position the bolts and nuts around a sketch of the Timing cover.

When I picked up the Defender the previous owner told me that the power steering pump has been leaking out fluid for years. While there is plenty of room without lots of engine hangers on - I will find the power steering pump under a big ball of grease. Once located I will remove it and replace it with a new one. The new power steering pump was ordered a while ago and is being kept in a safe place. The brain cell that stored the location of that "Safe place" is in hiding. What fun!

Kind regards
Lionel