Thread: Hex Socket Size 200TDI Crank Bolt Metric

try the wheel nut socket first, if its that one you need 27mm

Hello Dave,

I tried my standard - not hex impact socket set - the bigger sized sockets are 27, 30, and 32 mm. The 27 mm was too small to fit the crank bolt. There was a 30 mm socket which seemed a very sloppy fit - too much play to even put to put any sort of pressure on it because it will round-off the nut flats.

I then remembered the large hex impact Imperial kit I bought for the Perkins diesel motor - which has some damn big bolts! The closest fit is 1' 3/16 There is still some play in the fit. An online conversion of this shows this at 30.1625 mm. The 1. 1/8 socket converts to 28.575 mm is too small. I have nothing in-between the two Imperial sizes.

I then dug some more on the internet and found a Landyzone post which identifies the crank nut as needing a 30 mm socket.

Maybe getting a proper 30 mm hex impact socket will be a more snug fit than the standard socket of unknown manufacturer's origin that I own? I will find out tomorrow. The photo shows the difference in style between the 30 mm socket and the 1' 3/16 hex impact socket.

I changed my internet search keywords around a bit and I just found a Landy Zone thread on 200tdi posted by Saint V8 - accessed 26th January 2021 from 200TDi Timing Belt Change and Cylinder head Refurb How To.... | LandyZone - Land Rover Forum. The first post in the thread lists "Tools Required" and it has 30 mm (crank damper). Another post - that I cannot find now ... said either 30 or 41 mm with the earlier pre 200 TDI having the 41 mm. The 300 TDI is written down as a 27 mm. Then other websites mention totally different sizes.

Fingers crossed that a 30 mm Hex impact socket is the correct one. Then I just have to see if the crank bolt plays nice or nasty in allowing me to undo it.

Kind regards
Lionel

1 1/16” or 27mm
As above
Same as wheel nut

Watch out for the dreaded “high current locktite” that was often applied when 200 pulleys got the death wobbles

If it’s been on for a few laps around the block
And the old “jam breaker bar on chassis rail - disconnect fuel solenoid - kick starter” trick fails
You might need one of these

Sydney Tools

Oh see my point above about NumNuts who weld pulleys / nuts onto cranks ... check first before unleashing hell on the nut

You may have picked up by inference - the correct socket size is merely the first step in the journey!!!



Steve

Hahaha
Oops
Sorry Lionel
I thought the one 200tdi I struggled with was the same as the many 300tdi I’ve had the displeasure of knocking loose with a 27mm bolt?

Apologies

Either way my other points still stand true!!!

S

Originally Posted by roverrescue

If it’s been on for a few laps around the block
And the old “jam breaker bar on chassis rail - disconnect fuel solenoid - kick starter” trick fails
You might need one of these

Sydney Tools

Lol. Neither of those worked on my 300TDi. Wound up buying a 3/4 drive cordless rattler from Milwaukee. Price made my eyes water, but it's awesome and I don't regret it at all now. Gets a wheel off in seconds.

Hello Rover Rescue, Tins, and Dave,

I found the link that I mentioned in an earlier post. It identifies the crank nut socket sizes... Not sure the reliability of the content going off the person's username though... According to CwazyWabbit ...

41 mm for early pre-TDi engines, 30mm for later pre-TDi and 200TDi, 27mm for 300TDi

Accessed January 26th 2021 from, Crankshaft pulley size? - Defender Forum (1983 - 2016) - LR4x4 - The Land Rover Forum.

Thank you for the link to the Sydney Tools site. I read some threads about how the starter motor trick has bent and warped breaker bars - so I will see how my rattle gun goes first.

Just to confirm - the vehicle I want to change the timing belt on is a January 1993 Defender with a 200 TDI. Some confusion may also be arising is that yesterday I posted about some issues I have been having with my May 1996 D1 with a 300 TDI.

Kind regards
Lionel

Originally Posted by roverrescue

Hahaha
Oops
Sorry Lionel
I thought the one 200tdi I struggled with was the same as the many 300tdi I’ve had the displeasure of knocking loose with a 27mm bolt?

Apologies

Either way my other points still stand true!!!

S

G'day Steve,

No worries Steve. The Defenders of the 1990s were fitted with the 200 TDI and later on the 300 TDI then sometime later the TD5 - so it is easy to confuse when what motor was fitted.

Does anyone know when these changes from Defender motors 200 TDI to 300 TDI to TD5 actually occurred.

My Defender being plated as January 1993 probably means the engine was made in 1992; which adds a further bit of complication.

If CwazyWabbit's description that pre-TDi motors are 41 mm ... which to me equals "Series" motors, could mean I have to track down a 41 mm crank bolt for my Series 3 and 2A.

I also found a Trailerfitters Toolbox Video shows two different 200 TDI Crank Nut Tools accessed January 2021 from, 200tdi / 2.5NAD / 2.5Td crank holding tool - used when undoing the crank dog nut - YouTube - so there could be some more internet exploration ahead. Or my buying some 4-5 mm steel plate and taking the oxy cutter for a spin or two and making my own version.

Kind regards
Lionel

Hello All,

It looks like there could be another approach to take with removing the crank nut. Get or make something like this tool... Accessed 26th January 2021 from Jaguar Land Rover Flywheel Locking Tool Front Pulley Bolt Starter Motor. Now I just have to find where I found this method from. Damn I should have saved the URL...

Kind regards
Lionel