Thread: these shouldnt bend!

well....that cleared up all the confusion......


so now i am clearly confused.......




what about welding a length of plate upright on top of the trailing arms.....
the equivalent principal of an i beam.........and a length of angle iron on the bottom of each
trailing arm....to act as a sort of slider as well........?

what about welding a length of plate upright on top of the trailing arms.....
the equivalent principal of an i beam.........and a length of angle iron on the bottom of each
trailing arm....to act as a sort of slider as well......

its a suspension component, so i wouldnt be welding anything to it. and the other thing would you want it closer to that big rock that might bend it???
if you weld a strong back on a trailing arm you can actually weaken it.

as for tube being stronger than solid! dont think so.

Phil,
Do you have any more detailed or larger pics of how you did th pin arrangement?

I was going to get some appropriate tube the same ID as the OD of the originals, sleve and weld the pins on.

dave it would be easier to make solid ones. jusy buy some 32mm(1 1/4'') high tensile at the length you want, take them to a machine shop and turn down end to 19mm x 95mm long add a 2mm radius in the corner then thread a m20x2.5 thread on it at 40mm long.
take it to a vice and put the bend in it with an oxy, or a 20T press if you have one.

realistically, materials cost $80
machining $60
cut your old ends off and weld on, new bushes if you wish. and paint.
now thats a fiar bit cheaper than the ones you can buy.

cheers phil

Mine are made from 44mm solid bar, and rather than bend them, I used the LRA offset bushes. Even with Maxis, I don't think they'll bend.








Paul

Why not just sleeve the factory ones and use LRA angled mounts.
Easiest way to do it is get some 3mm wall pipe, cut it the length of the arm, drill some holes in it, slide it on and fill will silicone.
Engineer won't have a problem with it as you've done no welding to the arms